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-   -   Basement finishing - Ottawa End-Unit Town (http://www.buildinghomes.ca/community/forums/showthread.php?t=22915)

bookiej_hmbs 2015-01-20 11:01 PM

Basement finishing - Ottawa End-Unit Town
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hello everyone. I've lived in my new build since the beginning of May. I'm fairly handy, and what I don't know, I research endlessly. I'm a shift worker and have several days off every several days, so I have a lot of spare time on my hands to work away at finishing a basement. I hope this thread serves as a log of my progress, and a place to gain insight and knowledge from those who have been there and done that, or are older and wiser and can help me with the in's and out's of certain things.

First things first: The design.

After trying my hand at a few different programs, I settled on RoomSketcher. Pretty easy to use, however it doesn't have the option to show the wall lengths. I've added in the details I feel are important in planning the space, as well as a vision of what it could look like completed.

I'm open to any and all ideas! Thanks in advance :)

good2know 2015-01-21 10:55 AM

a couple quick things with more to come:

Take out the builder insulation in the header area, caulk or foam all the joints and cracks
Then reinstall sealing the vapour barrier properly.

Plans need to include a large cold air return intake at floor level

Access to furnace room must be large enough that tank and furnace can be removed and replaced.

Consider a dimpled membrane under the laminate - warmer and moisture protection.
Delta ms works well.

Get a contractor card from lowes. 5% or more off everything and delivery is $20

jeffjc 2015-01-21 11:43 AM

in your pics your numbers for the shower and the sink are reversed from what it actually looks like.

Agreed on the entrance to the furnace room for the hot water tank.

bookiej_hmbs 2015-01-21 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffjc (Post 295991)
in your pics your numbers for the shower and the sink are reversed from what it actually looks like.

Agreed on the entrance to the furnace room for the hot water tank.

Yes, I realize the 2 pics show a different layout in the bathroom. I should have mentioned that. I plan (not sure how difficult or costly it is) to have the pipes switched so the shower can be on the right side. I think it would be better for the flow of things, so you don't have to walk past a shower just to wash your hands.

bookiej_hmbs 2015-01-21 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by good2know (Post 295986)
a couple quick things with more to come:

Take out the builder insulation in the header area, caulk or foam all the joints and cracks
Then reinstall sealing the vapour barrier properly.

Plans need to include a large cold air return intake at floor level

Access to furnace room must be large enough that tank and furnace can be removed and replaced.

Consider a dimpled membrane under the laminate - warmer and moisture protection.
Delta ms works well.

Get a contractor card from lowes. 5% or more off everything and delivery is $20


Thanks for the reply good2know! I've read a lot of your posts in various threads.

I had planned to do that exact thing to the rim joists(headers). This could take place any time, once I get to it. I plan to get the dreaded City permit, but could start this before then? My plan for the walls is actually to remove the builder blanket, glue 1.5" rigid against the walls.. stud against the rigid and then fill in the studs with the pink blanket that I cut to size. Just wanted to confirm the layout on here first.

I'm pretty sure there is already a pipe that just ends in the ceiling that can be extended to the floor for cold air return.

The double doors on the left side of the furnace room would allow the removal and replacement of HWT/furnace. The bar that's there wouldnt be fixed so it could be moved out of the way if need be. Do you think the pocket door in the bathroom providing access to the back side of the furnace room and my humidifier is necessary?

I've looked into the flooring option and was thinking of going with something dimpled, such as the DeltaFL or the DMX 1-Step, followed by 5/8" OSB. I think I can skip the OSB if I choose to go with laminate.

That's good2know (haha) about the Lowe's contractor card! Does HomeDepot do the same?

jeffjc 2015-01-21 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bookiej_hmbs (Post 296004)
Yes, I realize the 2 pics show a different layout in the bathroom. I should have mentioned that. I plan (not sure how difficult or costly it is) to have the pipes switched so the shower can be on the right side. I think it would be better for the flow of things, so you don't have to walk past a shower just to wash your hands.

the natural place for the shower is in the right corner as you have drawn. Moving the pipes in the wall is easy. For the floor they will likely have to dig it up anyways as they are rarely in the right spot for the floor drain. So you may as well do it as you like.

good2know 2015-01-21 06:46 PM

Homedepot contractor deal is not as good. Also jan29 to Feb 1it is 15% off. They have a special like this monthly.

No problem doing the header pre permit. Just needs to be visible for inspection point pre drywall.

Access to humidifier is a must. No need for osb if you go laminate.

What is the ceiling plan?

bookiej_hmbs 2015-01-21 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffjc (Post 296010)
the natural place for the shower is in the right corner as you have drawn. Moving the pipes in the wall is easy. For the floor they will likely have to dig it up anyways as they are rarely in the right spot for the floor drain. So you may as well do it as you like.

I figured the shower belonged to the right. I guess I would be best to buy my tub or shower base before the plumbing was relocated so that it lined up perfectly. Is it typical to do the framing and insulation first and then have the plumbing put into the wall/ break up the floor and relocate the drains? I ask because I may not finish the bathroom immediately.. we have plenty of toilets so no rush. Would wait for sales, etc to finish it.

bookiej_hmbs 2015-01-21 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by good2know (Post 296016)
Homedepot contractor deal is not as good. Also jan29 to Feb 1it is 15% off. They have a special like this monthly.

No problem doing the header pre permit. Just needs to be visible for inspection point pre drywall.

Access to humidifier is a must. No need for osb if you go laminate.

What is the ceiling plan?

Thats great! I will definitely go check out Lowes and get things set up, even if I don't buy right away. 15% off is a motivator though!

Any idea what I can expect to pay for permits? the space is approx 500 sqft. I don't know which category I fall into.. is it Gorup C - Finished basement for above residential @ $0.29/ sqft? Is that it? Do I need to pay for each inspection or is it included in the cost of the permit? I've read a lot about permit vs no-permit and I'd rather have the peace of mind that when it comes time to sell there won't be any issues.

The ceiling plan.. that's still undecided. I am thinking on the bathroom/furnace room side I will go with drop ceiling (most of the plumbing and hvac is on this side) and then drywall the living area. Open to suggestions though.

good2know 2015-01-22 07:19 AM

I beleive your permit will be based on $11 per $1000 of value which is $40/sq ft x the sqft.

The $40 needs confirmation.

I have seen the dropped ceiling tracks go rusty in bathrooms. Suggest a high quality fan > 100cf to minimize this risk.

Permit fees cover inspections. Electrical is separate and in addition.


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