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  #1871  
Old 2013-11-09, 06:30 AM
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good2know good2know is offline
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Default Thermal Imaging

Hi Phil - quick questions please.

Is thermal imaging an optional extra for a standard inspection? Or is it included always?

Can someone hire you for just a thermal images inspection?
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  #1872  
Old 2013-11-10, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by good2know View Post
Is thermal imaging an optional extra for a standard inspection? Or is it included always?
For Acker Home Inspection, we use an infrared camera as part of our inspection process for all home inspections. Other inspectors may or may not offer infrared thermography, and if they do, this can be a chargable service.
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Originally Posted by good2know View Post
Can someone hire you for just a thermal images inspection?
I make consideration for single-item inspections on a case-by-case basis. Most often, I decline to offer this as a stand-alone service.
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  #1873  
Old 2013-11-17, 10:07 AM
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Phil's Home Tips #7: Insufficient Heating or Cooling to Rooms or Areas

A frequent issue reported for new homes is rooms that do not have adequate heating or cooling. That is, people in the home feel that there is a significant difference between the temperature set at the thermostat and the temperature experienced in a specific area of their homes. Most-complained-about locations include bedrooms, bathrooms, rooms over the garage or overhangs, and basements.

Here are a few suggestions to help resolve this issue:

1] Check heat registers and air returns for flow. Using a square of toilet tissue is the easiest method to confirm flow. For a supply register, the tissue should "levitate" at least 6" when held above the register. For an air return, the tissue should stick to the return air grill. These checks should be performed when the furnace is running during a heating/cooling cycle, or when the fan is set to the "On" position.

2] Air supply registers often have two means of controlling flow: an adjustable flow device in the register, and [quite often] a damper in the duct itself. The damper in the duct is often accessible by lifting up the supply register and seeing or feeling for a round metal damper inside the duct. For areas with insufficient heating/cooling, make sure air supply dampers and registers are fully open.

3] Adjust dampers/registers at other locations to increase the amount of air sent to the rooms or areas experiencing insufficient heating or cooling. This is a trial-and-error approach, but with perseverance, its often possible to balance to get more uniform heating/cooling distribution.

4] In cold, windy conditions, place your hand over outlets, switches, and other wall penetrations on outside walls to check for draft. Do the same at operable windows, checking for draft at latches and cranks. Check window trims and baseboards as well.

5] Air flow to registers can be improved by ensuring all duct joints are sealed. Starting at the furnace, check all joints and seal by use of metal foil duct tape or duct joint sealant.

If you are preparing to submit insufficient heating or cooling as a warranty claim issue, be aware that these are described in the Tarion Construction Performance Guidelines as conditions warrantable for up to two years. The conditions are described by Condition 8.9, Inadequate Heating, and Condition 8.19, Inadequate Cooling.

To assist both the builder and Tarion for determination of the severity of these conditions, and to help in determining courses of action, in collaboration with the Tarion Ottawa office, we have prepared a data collection form.

Select this link to download the form: Inadequate Heating Cooling Record Follow the instructions to prepare for and record data into this form.

For more tips, follow this link:
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Last edited by Inspector Phil Acker; 2013-11-17 at 10:14 AM.
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  #1874  
Old 2013-11-21, 12:11 PM
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Trying to figure out what is the correct distance from a hood fan and a gas stove. Some say 30 inches from the cabinet others 30inchs from the hood fan. Help with. this would be appreciated.
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  #1875  
Old 2013-11-21, 07:16 PM
BlkStnBerk2 BlkStnBerk2 is offline
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Ventilation Code (CAN/CSA-F326 Residential Mechanical Ventilation Systems)

While gas ranges are approved for direct venting into the home, the ventilation code for newer homes requires a range hood of at least 100 cfm (cubic feet per minute) exhausting capacity to be installed above a standard 30" gas range or cook top. New homes containing combustion appliances also require carbon monoxide (CO) detectors, but many older homes do not have CO detectors. While today’s gas ranges and cook tops are very clean burning, there is a lot of moisture and some combustion byproducts that are best vented directly outside. Therefore range hoods should be used and CO detectors installed for the safest appliance operation.
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  #1876  
Old 2013-11-21, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Trying to figure out what is the correct distance from a hood fan and a gas stove. Some say 30 inches from the cabinet others 30inchs from the hood fan.
The Building Code relates only to distance above cabinets, so unprotected combustible components, such as the bottom of a cabinet directly above a range would need to be at least 30". Putting a hood fan or microwave above the stove is not covered by the Building Code. By default, the reference to follow is the manufacturer's instructions. The distance of a hood fan or microwave above the stove [gas or electric] needs to be determined from a review of both the stove and the fan/microwave installation instructions.

For those fascinate by the Mighty Codites, for your pleasure, here is the Building Code requirements for this topic:

9.10.22.2. Vertical Clearances above Ranges
(1) Except as provided in Sentence (2), framing, finishes and cabinetry installed directly above the location of the range shall be not less than 750 mm [30"] above the level of range burners or elements.
(2) The vertical clearance described in Sentence (1) for framing, finishes and cabinets located directly above the location of the range is permitted to be reduced to 600 mm [23-5/8"] above the level of the elements or burners provided the framing, finishes and cabinets,
(a) are noncombustible, or
(b) are protected by,
. (i) asbestos millboard not less than 6 mm [1/4" thick, covered with sheet metal not less than 0.33 mm [0.13"] thick, or
. (ii) a metal hood with a 125 mm [4-7/8"] projection beyond the framing, finishes and cabinets.


9.10.22.3. Protection Around Ranges
(1) Except as provided in Sentences (2) and (3), combustible wall framing, finishes or cabinets within 450 mm [17-3/4"] of the area where the range is to be located shall be
protected above the level of the heating elements or burners by material providing fire resistance not less than that of a 9.5 mm [3/8"] thickness of gypsum board.
(2) Counter-top splash boards or back plates that extend above the level of the heating elements or burners need not be protected as described in Sentence (1).
(3) Except for cabinetry described in Article 9.10.22.2., cabinetry located not less than 450 mm [17-3/4"] above the level of the heating elements or burners need not be protected as described in Sentence (1).
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Last edited by Inspector Phil Acker; 2013-11-21 at 07:55 PM.
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  #1877  
Old 2013-11-25, 09:53 AM
KenAndTamra KenAndTamra is offline
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Phil, do you have much experience with Permanent Wood Foundations in the Ottawa area? We are looking at a resale home that looks great other than this particularity. We'd definitely need someone to come take a look. Thanks!
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  #1878  
Old 2013-11-25, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenAndTamra View Post
Phil, do you have much experience with Permanent Wood Foundations in the Ottawa area? We are looking at a resale home that looks great other than this particularity. We'd definitely need someone to come take a look. Thanks!
Yes, I'm familiar with this type of foundation. All though not a common form of foundation, I have inspected several of these.
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  #1879  
Old 2013-11-29, 03:50 PM
Kanataian Kanataian is offline
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Question regarding total closing off vents/floor registers in an unused guest room. Currently we have four bedrooms and only using three, the fourth one is more of storage/laundry hanging room etc... Would it hurt to totally close off the floor registers and close the door so we aren't heating an unused room ? I went in there today and it is very chilly plus it faces North and is above the garage. (note my wife had already done this last week), just thought I would get some expert advice

Thanks
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  #1880  
Old 2013-11-29, 09:40 PM
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Phil,
Do you have strong experiences inspecting rural homes with drilled water wells and septic systems that are 20 years old?
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