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  #2511  
Old 2018-10-31, 08:21 AM
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Inspector Phil Acker Inspector Phil Acker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suezuki650 View Post
The shut-off for our outside tap looks like a gas shut off. Easy to shut off, but I don't see any bleeder cap. As well, our hose is attached under the deck. Is it really necessary to remove the hose or can you just drain the hose and leave it there. The outside tap has a plastic cap on the top. Not quite sure what it's for.
If the valve you believe is the shut-off for the barbecue, then gas piping would be have yellow tape markers or a yellow jacket for flexible gas piping, or would be piping with threaded ends if rigid piping. Post a picture if you need confirmation.

Since your townhouse is relatively new, touch base with your builder to confirm the location of the interior water shut-off valve. You could also ask one of your neighbours, particularly on that has the same model as you.

The lowest risk practice is to remove the hose and open the hosebib tap for winter preparation.

You asked about the plastic cap on top of the hosebib. This is called the "vacuum breaker". Its purpose is to prevent a back-flow of water into the public water supply if the pumps fails at you utility side of the system. The concern is that a hose could be in a swimming pool, pond, ditch, etc at the same time the water pumps fail, which could cause a suction that pulls water back into the water supply system. The vacuum breaker is designed to release the back-flow suction. So, don't play with the vacuum breaker.
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  #2512  
Old 2018-10-31, 09:57 AM
suezuki650 suezuki650 is offline
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Originally Posted by Inspector Phil Acker View Post
If the valve you believe is the shut-off for the barbecue, then gas piping would be have yellow tape markers or a yellow jacket for flexible gas piping, or would be piping with threaded ends if rigid piping. Post a picture if you need confirmation.
No, the shut off for the water is the same "style" as the one for the BBQ. I was using that as a descriptive reference, but I know which is which. You had mentioned that it should have a bleeder cap and what I'm looking at doesn't seem to have a bleeder cap.
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  #2513  
Old 2018-10-31, 02:23 PM
oakvillehomeowner oakvillehomeowner is offline
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in my experience, removing the hose is essential. I left mine attached one year and the vacuum breaker cracked because there was still water in the valve. when I turned on the water it leaked from that top cap until I replaced the cracked pieces.

removing the hose ensures that the vacuum breaker and outside tap drains fully.

if I were you I'd disconnect the hose, drain the water from it, and leave it under the deck if you don't have space to store it indoors.

my shutoffs for the outside taps have bleeder caps, but I've never had to bleed the lines. the "frost free" faucet works fine, and hasn't frozen the line heading to it. I can even turn on the tap in -35C weather and when I turn it off it drains without freezing up.
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  #2514  
Old 2018-11-08, 10:39 AM
nafr1 nafr1 is offline
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Hello Phil,

I am currently in process of finishing the basement. I have an insulation blanket installed by my builder and the framing company has installed the frames right infront of the insulation blanket. My only concern is, around the window there is about 1 inch of exposed concrete, as insulation blanket ends an inch short of the window. The frame is right infront of that exposed concrete. You think I need to provide some sort of insulation (spray foam or fiberglass in that gap) before they put the drywall? Please find the picture attached that would further explain the issue. Thanks.

Window Side:


Window Top:
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  #2515  
Old 2018-11-10, 07:00 PM
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Can you please edit your post so I can see the pictures better?
Phil
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  #2516  
Old 2018-11-13, 01:42 PM
OttawaG OttawaG is offline
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Hi Phil, a very quick question.... if someone books an appointment for home inspection with your company, do you do the inspection yourself or do you have other inspectors working for you & you send one of them to do the inspection?
And what is the typical wait time to get an appointment, considering Ottawa market is pretty busy now.
Thanks & have a good day
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  #2517  
Old 2018-11-14, 08:56 AM
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Inspector Phil Acker Inspector Phil Acker is offline
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Originally Posted by OttawaG View Post
Hi Phil, a very quick question.... if someone books an appointment for home inspection with your company, do you do the inspection yourself or do you have other inspectors working for you & you send one of them to do the inspection?
And what is the typical wait time to get an appointment, considering Ottawa market is pretty busy now.
Thanks & have a good day
All inspections are done by me. With me is Randy, who's primary activity is to prepare the files we create for our clients so that they are available at the end of the inspection.

Our scheduling is in constant flux. At this time of the year, we can find ways to schedule most incoming requests. Saturday's are pretty much booked out 3 weeks ahead, as this is the most popular day for many of our customers.
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  #2518  
Old 2018-11-14, 11:09 PM
vavavoom vavavoom is offline
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Hi Phil,

I have question regarding the bowed/warped window sill (the inside bottom portion of the wood panel next to the window) not sure if this is the right name for it..
I did a site visit recently and noticed many of my window sills are severely warped, out of level and builder did nothing but simply painted it and put window trim around it... I don’t see any sections in Tarion performance guide regarding “windows sills” specifically. It certainly looks like workmanship to me. Will I be able to put this on the PDI form for builder to address this?

Thank you
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  #2519  
Old 2018-11-15, 05:45 PM
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Inspector Phil Acker Inspector Phil Acker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vavavoom View Post
I have question regarding the bowed/warped window sill (the inside bottom portion of the wood panel next to the window) not sure if this is the right name for it..
I did a site visit recently and noticed many of my window sills are severely warped, out of level and builder did nothing but simply painted it and put window trim around it... I don’t see any sections in Tarion performance guide regarding “windows sills” specifically. It certainly looks like workmanship to me. Will I be able to put this on the PDI form for builder to address this?
The inner portion of the window sill is a wood [or vinyl] trim element. If it is not properly installed, then this should be brought up during the PDI. The list of deficiencies noted during the PDI is entered on to the builder's forms, and this form does not go to Tarion. So don't sign the form until all items of concern during the PDI are entered into the PDI form. The first warranty claim milestone is for the 30-Day. If any of the PDI items are not resolved, then enter these into the 30-Day Warranty Claim using the statements given in the PDI form.
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Acker Home Inspection Inc.

WEB: www.ackerhome.ca
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  #2520  
Old 2018-11-15, 05:50 PM
vavavoom vavavoom is offline
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Originally Posted by Inspector Phil Acker View Post
The inner portion of the window sill is a wood [or vinyl] trim element. If it is not properly installed, then this should be brought up during the PDI. The list of deficiencies noted during the PDI is entered on to the builder's forms, and this form does not go to Tarion. So don't sign the form until all items of concern during the PDI are entered into the PDI form. The first warranty claim milestone is for the 30-Day. If any of the PDI items are not resolved, then enter these into the 30-Day Warranty Claim using the statements given in the PDI form.
Thanks so much! Hope builder won’t push back saying it’s “normal” lol....
Can’t seem to find the specific section in the Tarion guide
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