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Basement Finishing and Renovations Has it been 2 years already? Time to work on finishing the basement into some extra living space.


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Old 2017-01-03, 10:59 PM
Jgr327 Jgr327 is offline
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Default Cold storage insulation

I'd like to insulate my cold storage under my porch. 2 year old home. I read a article about insulating cold storage. I have a couple questions and will include pictures. I wanted to insulate my cold storage under my porch for extra storage. I was going to us ridgid dura foam 1 1/2" thick from Home Depot for the walls and ceiling. Will insulate floor to ceiling and remove the door to the cold room to heat the area. I'm going to tape and silicone all the seams to ensure no warm air can get behind the boards. Will plug the vent hole with insulation. It's going to be impossible to get the boards glued right against the walls, since the poured concrete, will that be an issue? Also, on the ceiling there is half inch chip board, does that need to be removed or glue the insulation to it?

Thanks for your impute and help
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Old 2017-01-04, 08:47 AM
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gerapau gerapau is offline
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FYI, if you use rigid foam insulation then you have to cover it with drywall to meet fire standards. You can't leave the foam insulation uncovered.

Also, if you have less than 2 inches of foam then you will probably have to also install a vapor barrier.
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Old 2017-01-04, 09:19 AM
Jgr327 Jgr327 is offline
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i knew that about the foam and drywall. My understanding is the durofoam has the vapour barrier built into it.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.d...000116759.html
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Old 2017-01-04, 12:49 PM
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gerapau gerapau is offline
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I've never used that so I can't say if it is sufficient for a vapour barrier. Also, does 1.5" provide enough R-value to meet codes for where you are for basement insulation?
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Old 2017-01-04, 05:07 PM
Jgr327 Jgr327 is offline
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Would I need to remove the chip board? That's my main concern
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Old 2017-01-04, 06:26 PM
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From what I have seen that chip board is what was used as a form for the concrete above. I'm not sure how easy it would be to remove but if you do remove it you would be able to then seal up the room better. Cold rooms are notorious for leaking where the walls meet the ceiling.
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Old 2017-01-04, 10:40 PM
Mark & Lynda Mark & Lynda is offline
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Should be easy to pull down. Remove the 2x4 bracing it up.

I pulled mine down, but it had a lot more 2x4 bracing throughout the ceiling.
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Old 2017-01-09, 01:23 PM
BartBandy BartBandy is offline
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I've done 2 cold rooms now. I studded and spray foamed the ceiling and exterior walls of one then sheathed with ply, and did the other in 1.5 inch blue extruded polystyrene to 24" below exterior grade. I strapped that with 1x3 and sheathed it in mold resistant osb. The XPS is glued to the concrete with foam glue and the 1x3 tapconned to the concrete. I hit the gaps with canned foam. Took forever (especially the ceiling). The closed cell spray foam was way easier. Then again, the XPS room was huge - about 100 sq.ft.

I did not plug the vent holes. I did not try to make either room an interior room. I have a cap I can put on one hole for the winter, and the other hole is hooked up to an exhaust fan on a timer. I just want to prevent freezing. It needs some air movement.

Both rooms seem to work fine. No musty smell, and no freezing. Perfect for vegetables or wine. Even with one vent open to the exhaust fan, the heat loss through the exterior grade door to the basement is enough to prevent freezing.

Remove the wood formwork first. It's difficult, but necessary. It will rot if you trap it between the insulation and the concrete.
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