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Basement Finishing and Renovations Has it been 2 years already? Time to work on finishing the basement into some extra living space.


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  #31  
Old 2017-05-09, 09:32 AM
jckstrthmghty jckstrthmghty is offline
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Hmmm. This just confirms I need to buy (and read) a book on framing before I start my basement project. I'll be following along with this thread closely.


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Originally Posted by good2know View Post
Very nice work. Just to confirm, knowing its a work in progress, there will be an access panel to the drain cleanouts? and horizontal framing in the wide bulkhead?

For this last, sometimes its easier to fasten a third framing member along the whole length rather than perpendicular to the outside framel. Cut verticals to proper length from the subfloor above down to where top of 2 x 4 needs to be. One screw into the side of the joist at the bottom and a dab of PL holds it fine. No need for a top plate there. You also gain 1.5 inch or so on height because the horizontal framing wood doesn't pass under the plenum or beam. The top of the drywall is 1/2 inch below the lowest point in the run. It also stops things from sagging. A sideways 2x4 on a 4 ft span (for example) is going to sag.

Edit to add: depending on time line, may want to run a horizontal strip of cheap strapping along the middle of the the wall studs. Minimizes twisting. If you do this blocking isnt needed - just messes up putting in the insulation, and creates a thermal bridge. Remove strapping as you install the drywall.
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  #32  
Old 2017-05-09, 11:13 AM
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xdarrylx xdarrylx is offline
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Originally Posted by good2know View Post
Very nice work. Just to confirm, knowing its a work in progress, there will be an access panel to the drain cleanouts? and horizontal framing in the wide bulkhead?
You bet, access panel will go in for the clean out when I box that in and will be relocating some shutoffs to the unfinished space so I don't have to add additional access panels "here and there"

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Originally Posted by good2know View Post
For this last, sometimes its easier to fasten a third framing member along the whole length rather than perpendicular to the outside framel. Cut verticals to proper length from the subfloor above down to where top of 2 x 4 needs to be. One screw into the side of the joist at the bottom and a dab of PL holds it fine. No need for a top plate there. You also gain 1.5 inch or so on height because the horizontal framing wood doesn't pass under the plenum or beam. The top of the drywall is 1/2 inch below the lowest point in the run. It also stops things from sagging. A sideways 2x4 on a 4 ft span (for example) is going to sag.
Appreciate the tips, good2know, these are excellent as I continue...

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Originally Posted by good2know View Post
Edit to add: depending on time line, may want to run a horizontal strip of cheap strapping along the middle of the the wall studs. Minimizes twisting. If you do this blocking isnt needed - just messes up putting in the insulation, and creates a thermal bridge. Remove strapping as you install the drywall.
Interesting point. I was debating installing blocking (no deadline, time on my side) as I can see some studs twisting and wanted to minimize this from happening but temporary strapping idea is a neat one also. Thanks for the tip, I'll give that some more thought.
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  #33  
Old 2017-05-10, 11:54 AM
royc royc is offline
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Hi xdarrylx, I had a question about permits. After you (or anyone) finishes a basement, a permit is required from the city, right? Or does it need to be procured before starting the project? How much does a permit cost (approximately)? Thanks.
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  #34  
Old 2017-05-10, 02:24 PM
AvalonEncoreOwner AvalonEncoreOwner is offline
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Originally Posted by royc View Post
Hi xdarrylx, I had a question about permits. After you (or anyone) finishes a basement, a permit is required from the city, right? Or does it need to be procured before starting the project? How much does a permit cost (approximately)? Thanks.
Permits are for suckers who hate their money.
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  #35  
Old 2017-05-10, 03:28 PM
jckstrthmghty jckstrthmghty is offline
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Permits are for suckers who hate their money.
I respectfully disagree
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  #36  
Old 2017-05-10, 04:23 PM
AvalonEncoreOwner AvalonEncoreOwner is offline
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Originally Posted by TheZoof View Post
LOL. Good luck to you.
The last house I bought and sold had a basement finished with no permits and it was BAD. BAD bad - no outlets anywhere, 16ga extension cords fished over the drywall, carpet glued to concrete, etc.

I bought it that way knowing it, and sold it a few years later without fixing a single thing. 2 offers. 20+ showings. Not a "hot" market by any means. No one asked for a permit. I figure an impeccably finished basement with no permits will be just fine too

Similarly, good luck finding the trail of permits after a house changes hands 2-3 times even if it was permitted to begin with. Permit or no permit, you do an inspection and either assume some risk (even on a brand new house) or walk away, regardless of whether it was permitted or not.

I used to think that a permit at least would mean the odds of having things done well would be a bit higher. After seeing the horrible work my builder got away with on brand new homes (with a thumbs-up given by the city), I'm convinced the average homeowner with a vested interest in not burning down their house does better work than so-called tradespeople.

Last edited by AvalonEncoreOwner; 2017-05-10 at 04:29 PM.
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  #37  
Old 2017-05-10, 04:55 PM
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xdarrylx xdarrylx is offline
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So here's my $.02 on permits as it was bound to come up...

It literally cost me $108 to get a basement permit so that THINGS ARE DONE CORRECTLY and I have peace of mind that I won't get screwed down the road.

If you go to sell a home, make an insurance claim or have issues in the future, without any permits you are SOL! Who wants to hold up the sale of a house because no permit was obtained? NO ONE. Who wants to have the insurance company refuse a pay out? NO ONE.

If a person thinks skirting around a few hundred dollars in permits and a few hundred dollars in property taxes each year isn't worth it, well, they can deal with the fallout.
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  #38  
Old 2017-05-10, 05:10 PM
jckstrthmghty jckstrthmghty is offline
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Originally Posted by AvalonEncoreOwner View Post
I'm convinced the average homeowner with a vested interest in not burning down their house does better work than so-called tradespeople.
This is not my understanding whatsoever. Granted there is many tasks any able body can perform however there are even more than I strongly believe require skill and experience to achieve a desired result. I've seen my fair share of good and bad work from both professionals and the not so much. There is a whole debate oh why bad work happens but I do not care much to get into that now. I will say with diligence you typically get what you pay for.
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  #39  
Old 2017-05-10, 05:16 PM
jckstrthmghty jckstrthmghty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdarrylx View Post
So here's my $.02 on permits as it was bound to come up...

It literally cost me $108 to get a basement permit so that THINGS ARE DONE CORRECTLY and I have peace of mind that I won't get screwed down the road.

If you go to sell a home, make an insurance claim or have issues in the future, without any permits you are SOL! Who wants to hold up the sale of a house because no permit was obtained? NO ONE. Who wants to have the insurance company refuse a pay out? NO ONE.

If a person thinks skirting around a few hundred dollars in permits and a few hundred dollars in property taxes each year isn't worth it, well, they can deal with the fallout.
Agreed. A permit doesn't mean the work is done well but it's the first step in doing things right. If you start off with the mentality that some things do not have to be done then how far does that go? Concrete isn't that wet so I don't need a sill plate. My walls are not load bearing so I'll space my studs out further to save some $$. That's an endless list.

You pay how much for a home and you are going to skimp a few hundred to get things done the right way? That definitely is the wrong path.
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  #40  
Old 2017-05-10, 09:12 PM
Rottn Rottn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdarrylx View Post
You bet, access panel will go in for the clean out when I box that in and will be relocating some shutoffs to the unfinished space so I don't have to add additional access panels "here and there"
If youre getting it inspected that my be an issue. I believe that the shutoffs must be within a certain (nearby ) distance of the outside hose bibb.
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