Ask Phil - Home Inspector

[HolidayBusiness]

Thank you very much, Phil. Much appreciated. While I have seen some roof trusses lying around for almost a month at the site, I believe ours got there sometime like a week ago and fingers crossed they go up soon. In the event that the black spots are mold or just wet lumber, is that a potential issue in future or do they dry out before the shingles are installed?

[Inspector Phil Acker]

Originally Posted by HolidayBusiness

In the event that the black spots are mold or just wet lumber, is that a potential issue in future or do they dry out before the shingles are installed?

With respect to the trusses being wet from on-site weather conditions, there should be no problems going forward. This is the most likely scenario, and after the trusses are installed with the roof sheathing and shingles in place, the trusses would dry out and would be protected from water in the future.

With respect to mold, this would require frequent wetting over a period of time, so I'm inclined to think that it is unlikely that there will be mold on trusses that were stored in a way where they were not in direct contact with the ground. In the event that there is surface mold on wood truss components, it is unlikely that this would be a cause of concern. For mold to propagate, it would need a fresh source of water, such as from an active water leak, or due to frequent condensation issues that could arise if the attic is not adequately ventilated. Otherwise, the attic environment is not conducive to mold growth. For anyone with mold allergies, the attic is expected to be isolated from the home's interior, so mold sensitivity from mold on wood surfaces in the attic should not be a concern.

From a structural perspective, surface mold does not affect the integrity of the trusses. If there were to be a concern, it would be from wood rot. Wood rot needs recurrent wetting over time. The trusses would have had to been stored in a location where there is water pooling for a prolonged period of time.

[HolidayBusiness]

Originally Posted by Inspector Phil Acker

With respect to the trusses being wet from on-site weather conditions, there should be no problems going forward. This is the most likely scenario, and after the trusses are installed with the roof sheathing and shingles in place, the trusses would dry out and would be protected from water in the future.

With respect to mold, this would require frequent wetting over a period of time, so I'm inclined to think that it is unlikely that there will be mold on trusses that were stored in a way where they were not in direct contact with the ground. In the event that there is surface mold on wood truss components, it is unlikely that this would be a cause of concern. For mold to propagate, it would need a fresh source of water, such as from an active water leak, or due to frequent condensation issues that could arise if the attic is not adequately ventilated. Otherwise, the attic environment is not conducive to mold growth. For anyone with mold allergies, the attic is expected to be isolated from the home's interior, so mold sensitivity from mold on wood surfaces in the attic should not be a concern.

From a structural perspective, surface mold does not affect the integrity of the trusses. If there were to be a concern, it would be from wood rot. Wood rot needs recurrent wetting over time. The trusses would have had to been stored in a location where there is water pooling for a prolonged period of time.

Thank you very much, Phil. That puts my mind at ease a bit. Much appreciated!

[sushispace]

Hey Phil,

During the cold weather that we've been having for a few weeks now I've decided to finally pop my head into the attic to see if things are alright. On a day where it was a bit warmer out after a string of cold days, I saw that there were icicles ranging from a few cm to 5cm on the roofing nails in localized areas mainly above the bathrooms that were dripping water from the thaw. Other times it would just be a layer of frost on the OSB panels and around the nails in different areas. I just want to know if I should be alarmed or not about this.

Thanks!

[Inspector Phil Acker]

Originally Posted by sushispace

During the cold weather that we've been having for a few weeks now I've decided to finally pop my head into the attic to see if things are alright. On a day where it was a bit warmer out after a string of cold days, I saw that there were icicles ranging from a few cm to 5cm on the roofing nails in localized areas mainly above the bathrooms that were dripping water from the thaw. Other times it would just be a layer of frost on the OSB panels and around the nails in different areas. I just want to know if I should be alarmed or not about this.

During prolonged cold spells like we're encountering, I find frost on the roof sheathing as well as frost on roofing nails. It will be most prominent and persistent on roof surfaces that are not exposed to the sun - typically the north-facing roof surfaces. It will also linger if there is insufficient air flow coming through the soffit vents and if the upper roof vents are blocked under snow. The frost will dissipate on roof surfaces that see the sun and are in areas where there is no snow on the shingles.

Its possible that the bathroom fan is not venting to the outside, but rather into the attic. Go outside and see if you can locate where the bathroom fan is exhausting. If you can't find it, then it is most likely that the bathroom is exhausting warm moist air into the attic. If you can see the outside exhaust cover, then later this evening after dusk, run the fan for about an hour. In cold weather, you should see frost showing up at the outside exhaust cover.

I am surprised that there are icicles going from roofing nails and extending about 5cm [2"] from the ends of the nails. This would suggest that warm indoor air is getting into the attic. If not the bathroom exhaust, check the attic hatch cover to make sure its sealed when in place.

[Orleans12345]

Hi Phil!

I bought a new build two level condo a week ago. Both of the bathrooms have two entrance doors - one from the main living area and another from the bedroom.

In one of the bathrooms the doors hit each other, wood on wood. They're already both showing damage. There is more than enough room for them to be installed correctly and not interfere with each other's swing clearance, but it seems they were off an inch or two in framing the doorways.

Is there anything in the Ontario Building Code that states that interior doors should be installed in a way that they're able to open without obstruction/hitting each other?

The second bathroom - the doors hit, but after checking the plans, I've realized that one door is installed to swing the wrong way. I assume this will be corrected, as it's clearly wrong.

Thank you for your time.

[a12]

Hi Phil,

I noticed the mortar around the stone in some sections are cracking on the exterior of my home, is this something that the builder would have to repair and would it be covered under Tarion for the second year?

Thanks.

[Inspector Phil Acker]

Cracks can be expected to occur in veneer masonry due to cyclic moisture absorption and drying. The most common locations masonry window ledges, masonry below door sills, and brick above window and door lintels. These cracks are generally "hairline" in nature during the first year. Time and freeze/thaw cycling will ultimately lead to the mortar deteriorating and flaking out. Homeowners should anticipate the need for minor mortar repairs [known as pointing repairs] about every 10 years.

The Tarion Construction Performance Guidelines, Condition 4.13 "Above-Grade Masonry Veneer Cladding [Including Mortar] is Cracked", allows that crack widths in excess of 2mm are not acceptable. The warranty coverage is one year. The method of measuring the crack width is with a 2mm hex key. The hex key would need to be able to be inserted in the crack without force to allow the condition to be warranted.

If you feel that the condition should be warranted, could you please upload a photo to share with those on this thread.

[a12]

Since it's been over a year now, does this mean that even if the cracks were greater than 2mm it's no longer under warranty coverage?

Thanks Phil.

[Inspector Phil Acker]

It would appear that this would be not warranted by Tarion based on the crack width being less than 2mm and the claim being made past the 1-year warranty claim period.

If the crack were greater than 2mm, but not reported under the 1-Year Tarion warranty claim submission process, than the condition can be expected to not be warranted.