finishing basement with builder's insulation and electrical wiring

[xdarrylx]

Originally Posted by homie27

the only problem with framing a basement like this is that it wastes space.

Isn't the idea to maximize space in the basement? And weren't you concerned that you didn't opt for the 9' ceilings so you have even less space to begin with...? I wouldn't be interested in a contractor who wants to frame inside just to save some time as they aren't the ones that are losing the space, you are.

To each their own, but you might regret it down the road just to save a few bucks.

[homie27]

the thickness of the insulation is about 3 inches. so we're wasting 3 inches all around the perimeter. Other than that, i have no other issues with this company. they gave us a good price.

[GregS]

Why not just take down the insulation and replace it with styroboard rigid insulation? Glue it right to the concrete. Then frame in front of that. Then batt insulate within the frame. Lotsa warmth there and you are saving space.

[homie27]

I'd rather they just do it the old fashion way. but I'm to see if they will do it that way. but the benefit to doing the framing in front of the insulation is that its easier to fish wires through the wall. If I want to install in-wall speakers in there, its easy. speaking of which, you helped me with my in-wall speakers upstairs in my family room. it went very smoothly.

[BartBandy]

I'm still a big fan of removing the bagged insulation, studding 1-2" from the wall, and closed cell spray foaming the wall and joist cavities. You rip, stud, run your wires and plumbing, and if you time it right, you're insulated in a day. I've put up rigid, and it's not a quick process. The joist cavities especially are a pain.

[xdarrylx]

Originally Posted by BartBandy

I'm still a big fan of removing the bagged insulation, studding 1-2" from the wall, and closed cell spray foaming the wall and joist cavities. You rip, stud, run your wires and plumbing, and if you time it right, you're insulated in a day. I've put up rigid, and it's not a quick process. The joist cavities especially are a pain.

Spray foam the headers and rigid foam the walls - best option IMO (aside from full spray foam which is $$$).

As long as you're happy and comfortable with the decision after you've done your research, homie27, that's all that matters.

[homie27]

as long as the walls are done properly and are strong, i should be ok with it. the advantage to having the walls setup like this is that there is no insulation in them. I will be wiring the room for 7.1 audio which means I will be putting 4 in-wall speakers. I won't have to be worry about the insulation.

[homie27]

I remembered something else the company said. right now the air vents are on the ceiling. They said they would use ducts to go across the ceiling and down the wall so its on the wall closer to the floor. is that normal? he said alot of heat is wasted when the air ducts are on the ceiling.

[good2know]

homie27 I suggest you contact the local building department. I dont think those horizontal bags can be covered by a wall.

Its likely a much lower level of R-value than you want anyway.

Air sealing the between joist spaces and sealing the rim joist are essential for basement comfort. Do you know if you have housewrap around the rim joist?

The vents can be extended out to say 3 feet from the exterior wall. No reason imo to drop to the floor. What is important is a properly sized return vent setup based on your layout and room sizes.

That will allow the hot air to get down to the floor.

[homie27]

sorry I don't know what you're talking about good2know. Maybe i'm not explaining myself well. you have those rectangular air vents on the floor of the main and upper floors right? I have those same vents in the basement, but on the ceiling pointing down. The vents are connected to round ducts about 6 inches in diameter. he wants to extend those round air ducts to the perimeter and then down the wall and then put the vent on the wall.