Go Back   BuildingHomes.ca - Building your community! > General > Basement Finishing and Renovations

Basement Finishing and Renovations Has it been 2 years already? Time to work on finishing the basement into some extra living space.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 2017-04-28, 02:35 PM
gerapau's Avatar
gerapau gerapau is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 1,788
Default

Are you planning on still installing a vapour barrier on the inside of the studs/insulation?
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 2017-04-28, 02:39 PM
xdarrylx's Avatar
xdarrylx xdarrylx is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Barrhaven, Ontario
Posts: 1,966
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gerapau View Post
Are you planning on still installing a vapour barrier on the inside of the studs/insulation?
Inside of the studs? Wouldn't that create a cold zone?

I am planning on installing it on the warm side (face of the studs) after I've inserted the Roxul so I've got the rigid foam as a 1st layer of moisture, tuck tape to stop vapours, spray foam the 1/2" gap between the studs and the rigid foam at the bottom plate and vapour barrier the front face up to top plate for a complete thermal break.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 2017-04-28, 02:46 PM
gerapau's Avatar
gerapau gerapau is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 1,788
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xdarrylx View Post
Inside of the studs?
That's what I meant (sorry for the confusion). Wasn't sure if you felt the rigid foam was the vapour barrier or not. With 2" it would be considered a vapour barrier and then having a second vapour barriers on the warm side of the roxul would probably not be a good thing.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 2017-04-28, 02:48 PM
gerapau's Avatar
gerapau gerapau is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 1,788
Default

I do wonder though if the 1" of rigid foam is enough of a barrier that it may cause issues??? You don't want two vapour barriers.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 2017-04-28, 02:54 PM
xdarrylx's Avatar
xdarrylx xdarrylx is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Barrhaven, Ontario
Posts: 1,966
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gerapau View Post
I do wonder though if the 1" of rigid foam is enough of a barrier that it may cause issues??? You don't want two vapour barriers.
My understanding is that the panels still allow for airflow behind (and under along the bottom with the dimpled DMX product) and it's the vapour barrier that acts as a true airflow stoppage point - the foam and the sub-floor are to allow any moisture to evaporate since both are mold/water resistant.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 2017-04-28, 06:32 PM
good2know's Avatar
good2know good2know is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 5,787
Default

I like to seal the bottom of the foam panels so that any moisture that gets in behind stays there. There is a surprising amount of air leakage through the crack where the concrete floor meets the wall. Damp smelly air that can also include radon.

You don't want this moisture in the roxul and wood part of the wall assembly.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 2017-05-08, 11:57 AM
xdarrylx's Avatar
xdarrylx xdarrylx is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Barrhaven, Ontario
Posts: 1,966
Default

Framing coming along...lots of math to figure out and trying to put everything it into 3D perspective so I can visualize what the drywall phase will look like. Having to also ensure that there are nailing edges when coming to corners is also a bit tricky but so far so good...and a fun learning experience!

Ladders are fun to build but getting them square to the other side of the room is tedious and also working to make the top and bottom plates plumb is another skill to learn.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	16.JPG
Views:	293
Size:	305.3 KB
ID:	13922   Click image for larger version

Name:	20.JPG
Views:	292
Size:	305.5 KB
ID:	13923   Click image for larger version

Name:	28.JPG
Views:	292
Size:	261.9 KB
ID:	13924  
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 2017-05-08, 01:05 PM
jckstrthmghty jckstrthmghty is offline
Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Ottawa Ontario
Posts: 54
Default

I know it's there but I can't see the sill gasket. Must be trimmed very well. Nice work so far. Clean.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 2017-05-08, 01:57 PM
xdarrylx's Avatar
xdarrylx xdarrylx is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Barrhaven, Ontario
Posts: 1,966
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jckstrthmghty View Post
I know it's there but I can't see the sill gasket. Must be trimmed very well. Nice work so far. Clean.
Thanks jckstrthmghty, and yup it's under there. I am pretty meticulous when it comes to alignment and fitment - bordering on OCD-type, LOL! And I tend to use the shop-vac every evening when I'm done so the work site is clean the next day. More OCD evidence...haha!
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 2017-05-08, 03:37 PM
good2know's Avatar
good2know good2know is offline
Senior Member
Regular User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 5,787
Default

Very nice work. Just to confirm, knowing its a work in progress, there will be an access panel to the drain cleanouts? and horizontal framing in the wide bulkhead?

For this last, sometimes its easier to fasten a third framing member along the whole length rather than perpendicular to the outside framel. Cut verticals to proper length from the subfloor above down to where top of 2 x 4 needs to be. One screw into the side of the joist at the bottom and a dab of PL holds it fine. No need for a top plate there. You also gain 1.5 inch or so on height because the horizontal framing wood doesn't pass under the plenum or beam. The top of the drywall is 1/2 inch below the lowest point in the run. It also stops things from sagging. A sideways 2x4 on a 4 ft span (for example) is going to sag.

Edit to add: depending on time line, may want to run a horizontal strip of cheap strapping along the middle of the the wall studs. Minimizes twisting. If you do this blocking isnt needed - just messes up putting in the insulation, and creates a thermal bridge. Remove strapping as you install the drywall.

Last edited by good2know; 2017-05-09 at 09:02 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
basement, basement finishing

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Finishing basement nessiesens Ottawa 10 2012-03-31 07:49 PM
Finishing my basement SteveLesley Home Owner Tips, Upgrades and Maintenance 24 2011-11-07 06:14 PM
Finishing the Basement djkoloks Stouffville 1 2011-02-26 06:05 PM
Finishing basement Kats Richmond Hill 0 2010-12-03 11:11 AM
Finishing a basement JohnathanKong Building and Construction 49 2010-01-11 10:15 AM



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:23 AM.



Copyright © PHAND Corporation
This document may not be used elsewhere without the expressed written consent of PHAND Corporation.
*** There is no association between this website and any builder. ***

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.