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Old 2017-06-22, 05:41 PM
homie27 homie27 is offline
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Default for those who bought a Century Grove home in Vellore Village about 9 years ago

HI all, for those who bought a Century Grove home in Vellore Village about 9 years ago, do you know the width of the wall studs they used on exterior walls? I'm going to install in wall speakers on an exterior wall and want to make sure I have room in there for the insulation and the speaker. I'm hoping they used 2x6".
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Old 2017-06-24, 09:10 AM
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easy way to tell is at a window or door. The thickness of the wall assembly would be 6 inches plus as opposed to 4.
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Old 2017-06-24, 08:28 PM
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2x6 has been standard for over 20 years, maybe close to 30 (think it was late 80s or early 90s they switched to allow more insulation.) Guaranteed they are 2x6 in a 2008 build.

Last edited by Rottn; 2017-06-24 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 2017-06-24, 11:28 PM
homie27 homie27 is offline
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ok thanks. do you think the drywall is touching the vapor barrier? just wondering if I will cut the vapor barrier when I cut a hole in the drywall to put in my in-wall speakers.
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Old 2017-06-24, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homie27 View Post
ok thanks. do you think the drywall is touching the vapor barrier? just wondering if I will cut the vapor barrier when I cut a hole in the drywall to put in my in-wall speakers.
The VB is probably up against the drywall, unless it is a double wall with mechanicals running in it. Depending how deep the speakers are, you may not want to put them in an exterior wall, may have issues with cold and condensation.

Have you considered building a bulkhead or building out sections of vertical wall in the corners to house the speakers?
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Old 2017-06-25, 11:23 AM
homie27 homie27 is offline
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the speakers are 2.88 inches deep. so the part that will be inside the wall will be less than that. is that too deep? I wouldn't do the bulkhead or the vertical wall. I'm already nervous enough about cutting the drywall.
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Old 2017-06-25, 03:30 PM
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How To Do Inwall Speakers On an Outside Wall:

I'm assuming that the wires are already in place.

If this is your first time, familiarize yourself with how the dogears work on the speaker to hold it in place. You can start tightening them with a drill-driver, but use a very very lose torque setting as you do not want to strip the plastic holding the screws.


1) Locate the studs on either side of the wire.

2) Using your speaker template, draw out your rectangle between the studs, try and place the template as evenly as possible between the studs so that you leave a lip of drywall on each side.

3) Cut out the drywall following the lines you drew. You are going to cut the vapour barrier, don't think you are not.

4) Use a measuring tape to measure to the top of the hole. Use this for the second speaker location so you can keep them the same height.

5) Remove the drywall to expose the insulation. Pull out a section of the insulation roughly the same size as the hole. You'll notice the insulation is in layers and you will be able to pull out about 1/3rd - 2rds of it leaving some in the back.

6) Try and fit your speaker. Make sure the dogears on the speakers are retracted otherwise it's not going to fit at all. If the hole is not large enough then trim it with your drywall saw until satisfactory.

7) Repair the vapour. What we have done in the past is just take a piece of poly and push it into the cavity and trim it the size of the hole but enough so that it has depth to fit towards the back. Then you can pull the edges of the existing vapour in from behind the drywall and tape it to the new piece using TuckTape.

8) Connect and install the speaker. Make it plumb using a torpedo level.

When doing the second speaker use the measurement from #4.
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Old 2017-06-28, 09:56 AM
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thanks for the steps Greg. I've already done steps 1 and 2. as for cutting the vapour barrier, I am planning on renting this saw from home depot that apparently you can position the blade so it only sticks out the same amount as the thickness of the drywall and therefore not cutting the vapour barrier. but then again I may have to cut it anyways if the speaker is pushing the the insulation too much to the back of the wall. is it bad if the insulation is being pushed back to much?
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Old 2017-06-28, 10:38 AM
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The insulation will get a bit compacted, but not enough to affect things in any significant way.

Here is a tip- cut a hole in the drywall using a utility knife an inch or so smaller than the speaker hole. Only let the blade out about a half inch (the thickness of the drywall). You can now pull the peice out and put something like a piece of plywood behind where you are cutting the actual speaker hole and not cut the VB. The small cuts you may have made in the VB with the knife can be easily sealed up with tuck tape.

PS- If your house is only the minimum distance to the neighboring home they may have used 5/8 drywall for fire resistance.
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Old 2017-06-28, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homie27 View Post
thanks for the steps Greg. I've already done steps 1 and 2. as for cutting the vapour barrier, I am planning on renting this saw from home depot that apparently you can position the blade so it only sticks out the same amount as the thickness of the drywall and therefore not cutting the vapour barrier. but then again I may have to cut it anyways if the speaker is pushing the the insulation too much to the back of the wall. is it bad if the insulation is being pushed back to much?
The way you describe it is you are going to leave the vapour barrier in place and then try and press the speaker up against it.
The vapour plastic is tight, I don't think you are going to be able to stretch it to properly fit the speaker in there.
Just be prepared to cut and patch it. It's not hard.
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