Finishing the Basement (project)

[gerapau]

Are you planning on still installing a vapour barrier on the inside of the studs/insulation?

[xdarrylx]

Originally Posted by gerapau

Are you planning on still installing a vapour barrier on the inside of the studs/insulation?

Inside of the studs? Wouldn't that create a cold zone?

I am planning on installing it on the warm side (face of the studs) after I've inserted the Roxul so I've got the rigid foam as a 1st layer of moisture, tuck tape to stop vapours, spray foam the 1/2" gap between the studs and the rigid foam at the bottom plate and vapour barrier the front face up to top plate for a complete thermal break.

[gerapau]

Originally Posted by xdarrylx

Inside of the studs?

That's what I meant (sorry for the confusion). Wasn't sure if you felt the rigid foam was the vapour barrier or not. With 2" it would be considered a vapour barrier and then having a second vapour barriers on the warm side of the roxul would probably not be a good thing.

[gerapau]

I do wonder though if the 1" of rigid foam is enough of a barrier that it may cause issues??? You don't want two vapour barriers.

[xdarrylx]

Originally Posted by gerapau

I do wonder though if the 1" of rigid foam is enough of a barrier that it may cause issues??? You don't want two vapour barriers.

My understanding is that the panels still allow for airflow behind (and under along the bottom with the dimpled DMX product) and it's the vapour barrier that acts as a true airflow stoppage point - the foam and the sub-floor are to allow any moisture to evaporate since both are mold/water resistant.

[good2know]

I like to seal the bottom of the foam panels so that any moisture that gets in behind stays there. There is a surprising amount of air leakage through the crack where the concrete floor meets the wall. Damp smelly air that can also include radon.

You don't want this moisture in the roxul and wood part of the wall assembly.

[xdarrylx]

Framing coming along...lots of math to figure out and trying to put everything it into 3D perspective so I can visualize what the drywall phase will look like. Having to also ensure that there are nailing edges when coming to corners is also a bit tricky but so far so good...and a fun learning experience!

Ladders are fun to build but getting them square to the other side of the room is tedious and also working to make the top and bottom plates plumb is another skill to learn.

[jckstrthmghty]

I know it's there but I can't see the sill gasket. Must be trimmed very well. Nice work so far. Clean.

[xdarrylx]

Originally Posted by jckstrthmghty

I know it's there but I can't see the sill gasket. Must be trimmed very well. Nice work so far. Clean.

Thanks jckstrthmghty, and yup it's under there. I am pretty meticulous when it comes to alignment and fitment - bordering on OCD-type, LOL! And I tend to use the shop-vac every evening when I'm done so the work site is clean the next day. More OCD evidence...haha!

[good2know]

Very nice work. Just to confirm, knowing its a work in progress, there will be an access panel to the drain cleanouts? and horizontal framing in the wide bulkhead?

For this last, sometimes its easier to fasten a third framing member along the whole length rather than perpendicular to the outside framel. Cut verticals to proper length from the subfloor above down to where top of 2 x 4 needs to be. One screw into the side of the joist at the bottom and a dab of PL holds it fine. No need for a top plate there. You also gain 1.5 inch or so on height because the horizontal framing wood doesn't pass under the plenum or beam. The top of the drywall is 1/2 inch below the lowest point in the run. It also stops things from sagging. A sideways 2x4 on a 4 ft span (for example) is going to sag.

Edit to add: depending on time line, may want to run a horizontal strip of cheap strapping along the middle of the the wall studs. Minimizes twisting. If you do this blocking isnt needed - just messes up putting in the insulation, and creates a thermal bridge. Remove strapping as you install the drywall.