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Basement Finishing and Renovations Has it been 2 years already? Time to work on finishing the basement into some extra living space.


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  #11  
Old 2012-11-30, 05:06 PM
jeffjc jeffjc is offline
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Leave the insulation in the rim joists, that is where most of your heat loss will be. Will it be cooler upstairs? Probably.
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  #12  
Old 2013-01-18, 09:26 AM
bisk bisk is offline
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Well, I think it's time to resurrect this thread

Over the Christmas break I took everything out of the basement (with the exception of the wall unit and couches) and put down DriCore. Now it's time to start framing, but before I do that I can't decide what to do about insulating. Right now I'm leaning towards ripping down the R12 crap that the builder put in and either do R14 (for 2x4 studs) or pay a little more and do R22 with 2x4s and have the insulation sticking out the back between the studs and concrete. What would I use for covering the foundation? Would the Typar house wrap be OK? I figured for the $700 or so it would be worth doing the insulation properly. I figured I needed about 15 bags of insulation.
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  #13  
Old 2013-01-18, 09:43 AM
R.F.D. R.F.D. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bisk View Post
Well, I think it's time to resurrect this thread

Over the Christmas break I took everything out of the basement (with the exception of the wall unit and couches) and put down DriCore. Now it's time to start framing, but before I do that I can't decide what to do about insulating. Right now I'm leaning towards ripping down the R12 crap that the builder put in and either do R14 (for 2x4 studs) or pay a little more and do R22 with 2x4s and have the insulation sticking out the back between the studs and concrete. What would I use for covering the foundation? Would the Typar house wrap be OK? I figured for the $700 or so it would be worth doing the insulation properly. I figured I needed about 15 bags of insulation.

Is it safe to assume that spray foam is out?

If so for starters I would not lean I would remove that R12 no questions.

Here are my suggestions for a low cost solution, In lieu of typar I would get Ĺ inch to 1 inch rigid foam and cover your walls prior to studs, the Ĺ inch is really easy to work with, will not absorb moisture, will not mold and provides a great barrier at a low cost and is easy to work with. *2Ē inchs of rigid I believe constitutes a vapour barrier which would mean no vb on the warm side,

tuck tape seams, with dricore in place I can only assume that you have a half inch around the permiter of your room for expansion, get flexible spray foam (what you would use for windows) and spray the perimeter to create a seal. When framing build California corners, this will allow you put insulation behind the corners. Using Roxul R14 between the studs and behind them if applicable depending on your wall contour and you will be comfortable in the basement in all seasons. Donítí forget proper vents for your hvac and donít forget a return vent; donít just cover it.
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  #14  
Old 2013-01-18, 10:00 AM
TheGrudge TheGrudge is offline
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I'm in the same boat as you - with almost exactly the same basement plan.

Like you, I have a 120" screen/projector setup that is currently setup in my unfinished basement (I'll have to update my pics).

http://www.buildinghomes.ca/communit...ad.php?t=20709

This will be my second basement in five years and here's what I'm doing/learned:

1) Subfloor. Last time I just bought the thickest underpad I could find and put carpet over top. No complaints with warmth, but this time I'm using the Barricade floor system. It's similar to drycore but I figured the extra insulation would be a benefit. If you use a subfloor system I don't think you'll need any self leveling product for the floor. A leveling kit maybe, but that's about it.
2) Insulation. I too am removing the bag insulation put in by the builder. I've had the insulation either removed or pinned out of the way for almost a year now so I can see if I have any water penetration. There was one area where I had a small crack that I wouldn't say leaked, but it was a bit damp. The crack has since been injected/repaired. I'm going spray foam as well - so much easier. My last man-cave was surrounded by Roxul Safe N' Sound. It's worth every dime!
3) I LOVE YOUR REAR SPEAKER STANDS . I don't have mine hooked up because there are no surrounding walls yet - this is pure genius!
4) Man cave setup. My couch is about 14' away from the screen right now and I'd say that's perfect. Any closer could cause motion sickness I think LOL.

The one thing I learned from my last man-cave, was to maybe make it a bit bigger. In my current house, I think I'm going to leave most of my basement open. It's basically like yours, but the kids room/theatre room will be all one room forming an "L" shape. Last time I had an enclosed room (19 x 15) that worked really well for just my wife and I, but for Superbowl parties and hockey games it was a bit small. Being that it's a projector, your couch has to be far away and if the room is narrow there isn't a ton of space for additional chairs/seats off to the side. My thinking with leaving our room open was to provide more room for extra people. I may use a half-wall or short wall to provide a sense of division between the kids section and our theatre room, but that's probably about it.

Don't get me wrong, a closed room is awesome. If you like to have large gatherings though, it's amazing how quickly a 20x20 room can feel so small.

Last edited by TheGrudge; 2013-01-18 at 10:11 AM.
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