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Basement Finishing and Renovations Has it been 2 years already? Time to work on finishing the basement into some extra living space.


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  #101  
Old 2017-07-10, 06:55 PM
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Looking fwd to the update.
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  #102  
Old 2017-07-11, 08:07 PM
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Inspection passed, w00t! Just a few things I need to resolve (which he was happy to let go as he'll see them on the final inspection):

- add a heat run in the bathroom since it has an exterior wall
- cover a single header space with roxul as it had some exposed spray foam

I am waiting on my cat7 and speaker wire (delivery tomorrow) to run before I start on the drywall. I also need to frame in the box for the electric fireplace so the space should start taking shape before the end of July...good thing too as my self-imposed deadline is end of August since my wife is returning to work from mat leave so I've got 6wks to get it done!
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  #103  
Old 2017-07-11, 09:02 PM
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Great news.
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  #104  
Old 2017-07-12, 07:13 AM
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Coming along nicely. If you ever sell the place you can tell potential owners about this tread so they can see the good work that was done!
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  #105  
Old 2017-07-14, 01:26 PM
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looks great...I have a few questions...

are you planning to apply vapor barrier to the warm-in-winter side of the studs?

is straight pine ok to use for the floor plate (unsure of the right word) that the studs attach to? I thought blue or pressure treated was required.

Why did you choose DMX airflow over some sort of wood subfloor?
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  #106  
Old 2017-07-14, 01:47 PM
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Ill answer # 2 - a spruce bottom plate is code compliant as long as it is sitting on plastic or foam to break the contact with the concrete. I like to wrap my bottom plate with 12"of poly. You can buy it this width. That way, if there is a minor water leak none of the wood, insulation or drywall gets wet.

Little more detail - on the exterior side, the poly gets stapled to the studs. On the inside, leave it loose on the floor then wrap it over the drywall. Ill trim with a scrap of door casing, then the baseboard covers the plastic.

Another tip / best practice is to keep the drywall 1/2 inch above the concrete. If there is a subfloor system this does not matter, but I do it anyway. A couple of drywall scraps under the edge and easy peezy.

Last edited by good2know; 2017-07-14 at 01:52 PM.
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  #107  
Old 2017-07-14, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by good2know View Post
Ill answer # 2 - a spruce bottom plate is code compliant as long as it is sitting on plastic or foam to break the contact with the concrete. I like to wrap my bottom plate with 12"of poly. You can buy it this width. That way, if there is a minor water leak none of the wood, insulation or drywall gets wet.

Little more detail - on the exterior side, the poly gets stapled to the studs. On the inside, leave it loose on the floor then wrap it over the drywall. Ill trim with a scrap of door casing, then the baseboard covers the plastic.

Another tip / best practice is to keep the drywall 1/2 inch above the concrete. If there is a subfloor system this does not matter, but I do it anyway. A couple of drywall scraps under the edge and easy peezy.
so if I understand correctly, you lay down the poly, put the bottom plate+top plates on, cut studs individually to size (or build the wall on the floor and raise on top of the poly). Bring the poly up and staple it to the sides of the studs (I guess its just loose enough that it is able to bend like that?) Ive seen a video that actually recommends taping this sheet to your underlayment (eg dmx)
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  #108  
Old 2017-07-14, 02:39 PM
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If using underlayment, you could just leave it flat on the floor and put the underlayment on top. If the studs are on top of the underlayment no poly is required.

I usually build the walls on the floor then stand them up. So I staple on the back of the studs. Another option would be to glue or tape it to the moisture barrier that is against the concrete wall then you could build it one stud at a time in place as you suggest.
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  #109  
Old 2017-07-14, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by good2know View Post
If using underlayment, you could just leave it flat on the floor and put the underlayment on top. If the studs are on top of the underlayment no poly is required.

I usually build the walls on the floor then stand them up. So I staple on the back of the studs. Another option would be to glue or tape it to the moisture barrier that is against the concrete wall then you could build it one stud at a time in place as you suggest.
gotcha, thanks - I saw some recommendations to build the studs individually since the ceiling and floor may not be square with eachother. Its my plan at this point. I like the idea of tying the vapor barrier on the floor into the vapor barrier on the wall.
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  #110  
Old 2017-07-14, 02:53 PM
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is it normal to just keep the blanket insulation in the untouched/mechanical areas, or should I be framing and insulating the entire basement? (sorry for the thread jack by the way..)
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