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  #2591  
Old 2019-05-23, 07:41 AM
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Inspector Phil Acker Inspector Phil Acker is offline
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Originally Posted by BiteSizeThumb View Post
H. . . We were wondering if you recommend sticking with an inspection prior to Tarion's 1 year to capture the winter freeze/thaw cycle or would it be better to have you in prior to the 30 day closing.
I don't make a recommendation about which warranty claim submission is better than the other, as there are good arguments for each being a "best" option. For example, if there is insufficient insulation in walls or the attic, then there could be adverse effects such as cold rooms [winter] or hot rooms [summer], condensation issues that lead to mold or leaks, etc., then early defection and correction would blunt negative impacts. On the other hand, waiting to year end presents the potential to discover seasonal issues over the span of all seasons, such as air infiltration past doors and windows, or water leaks that only occur under specific conditions.

My process and deliverables are the same regardless of which submission milestone is selected.
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  #2592  
Old 2019-05-24, 08:25 AM
alsh alsh is offline
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Originally Posted by Inspector Phil Acker View Post
The City building inspectors can order a builder to take something apart if they suspect that there is a non-conformance to the Building Code. For example, if the inspector was concerned with how the insulation was installed in other houses they've inspected in the same area, they may request the builder to open up the drywall to permit the inspector to review the specific issue. This can apply to several homes, to ascertain either deviations or compliance for a specific issue.
Thank you Phil,
The inspector came in, open a hole in the garage ceiling checked the insulation and they closed it up.
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  #2593  
Old 2019-05-28, 08:53 PM
Yodums Yodums is offline
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Hi Phil,

For the dryer exhaust vent that's installed by the builder, is there a minimum length it must stick out from the wall? Ours is sticking out maybe an inch (or less). It's barely enough for a hose clamp to wrap around it.

The appliance people refused to hookup our dryer. They mentioned that they would need to hookup the exhaust foil from the dryer to the exhaust vent, but the vent wasn't sticking out far enough. The foil would be making direct contact with the drywall, and it was a liability for them. Their expectations is the dryer vent should be sticking out 5-6 inches from the wall, so they can attach to it without any contact around it. I'll likely just go out and buy an extension, but just wanted to see what the builder is responsible for when they install that duck.

If pictures are needed, I can provide them.

Last edited by Yodums; 2019-05-28 at 09:04 PM.
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  #2594  
Old 2019-05-31, 07:51 AM
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Inspector Phil Acker Inspector Phil Acker is offline
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Originally Posted by Yodums View Post
For the dryer exhaust vent that's installed by the builder, is there a minimum length it must stick out from the wall? Ours is sticking out maybe an inch (or less). It's barely enough for a hose clamp to wrap around it.

The appliance people refused to hookup our dryer. They mentioned that they would need to hookup the exhaust foil from the dryer to the exhaust vent, but the vent wasn't sticking out far enough. The foil would be making direct contact with the drywall, and it was a liability for them. Their expectations is the dryer vent should be sticking out 5-6 inches from the wall, so they can attach to it without any contact around it. I'll likely just go out and buy an extension, but just wanted to see what the builder is responsible for when they install that duct.
There is no Building Code requirement for the duct length protruding from the wall. For the section of ducting provided by the builder, there are requirements such as that the duct must exhaust to the outside, that the duct must be insulated if it runs through an unconditioned space such as an attic or bulkhead, that at the outside the exhaust hood cannot contain a grill or screen etc.

Although you can discuss this with your builder, I suspect the assumption is that as long as there is a duct to connect to, then whatever is needed for the connection of the duct to the dryer is outside their responsibility.

One thing I keep seeing is that appliance installers take liberties in walking away from jobs they should be responsible for completing. In this case, the installers should have a supply of whatever is typically required to complete the job. It would be logical that they carry tools, devices, clamps, duct extensions, etc to get the job done that they were there to perform.
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  #2595  
Old 2019-06-12, 12:09 PM
gr8day gr8day is offline
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Default Limited air flow from vent

Hi Phil,

One of our rooms is extremely warm in the summer (even now) and cold in the winter. Originally there was one vent in the room and one in a tiny walk-in closet. We complained and the builder sealed the vent in the walk-in and moved it by the door to the closet, but in the room.

This vent is not blowing air as much as the other one. We got a picture and it shows that just a few inches down, the duct is turning at almost 90 degrees (see pic). Could it be the reason? Is there any way to fix this problem? Thanks!
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  #2596  
Old Today, 07:45 AM
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Inspector Phil Acker Inspector Phil Acker is offline
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One of our rooms is extremely warm in the summer (even now) and cold in the winter. Originally there was one vent in the room and one in a tiny walk-in closet. We complained and the builder sealed the vent in the walk-in and moved it by the door to the closet, but in the room.

This vent is not blowing air as much as the other one. We got a picture and it shows that just a few inches down, the duct is turning at almost 90 degrees (see pic). Could it be the reason? Is there any way to fix this problem?
You can expect to see bends in duct-work. You can also expect there to be a difference in how much air flow there is when comparing one register to another, because each run will be of different lengths and each run will have a different number of bends. Air flow is affected by friction, so the longer the run, the less the airflow, and if 2 runs were of the same length, the one with the most bends will have less flow at the register than the one with the fewest bends.

Conditioned air supply to a room is not the only reason a room is cold. If there is a return air duct at a wall location, with the furnace blower running, use a tissue paper to check if air is flowing into this register. If the tissue is showing air return flow, then this eliminates one possible cause. If there is no return air register, then see if leaving the bedroom door open has any effect.

Its also possible that there is missing, displaced, compacted, or insufficient insulation in wall cavities and the attic. You may wish to ask the builder to check this out.
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