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Old 2011-01-15, 12:52 PM
katezia katezia is offline
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Question Basement drywalling around Heating vent

I am presently looking for contractors to do basment renovation...and I personally do not have experience or idea what each contractor suggest is correct or not. I basically have two questions.

1) I am trying to drywall the ceiling, and there is a big heating duct work which will reduce head room if I frame around it. One contractor says that he can put something right against the metal duct to save space. The other contractor says that there is a building code which forbids to wrap something around less than 1 inch against the heating vent. Who is telling the truth here?

2) Regarding to the basement wall, the builder had already put insulation against the wall which is secured by a vapor barrier (a sheet of transparent plastic?) right on the first day I move into the house. There is no framing though. Now, I want to start framing the basement, but one contractor says that these insulation has to be taken down before the framing is done. However, another contractor was thinking to just frame without worrying about taking down the original pink insulation. Who is correct here?

I am pretty confused and would like to see if anybody will know an answer...and maybe know the building code more. I don't want to hire a contractor who does not know what he is doing.
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Old 2011-01-15, 02:29 PM
daytripscanada daytripscanada is offline
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1) Most times I've seen/done require building a shell out of 2x2s or 1x3s and putting it around the duct work. A better way is to use the metal studs as 1x3s can be fun to try to make straight.

2) You will have to take them down. They aren't put up to be walls. They likely aren't straight and trying to match the bottom portion to the top portion will be a pain in the ass. The only reason for the wood studs is to support the insulation that needs to be there.. not drywall for a finished wall.
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Old 2011-01-15, 02:48 PM
katezia katezia is offline
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Thanks for your reply!

Just to clarify, the basement has the insulation pushed against the wall by a piece of transparent plastic, and then secured onto the concrete wall by nails. There is no wood studs at all at this point.

I just hope to hire someone knowledgable but not charging too much. Does anyone has a recommendation on good contractor?
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Old 2011-01-15, 03:39 PM
golfer golfer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katezia View Post
2) Regarding to the basement wall, the builder had already put insulation against the wall which is secured by a vapor barrier (a sheet of transparent plastic?) right on the first day I move into the house. There is no framing though. Now, I want to start framing the basement, but one contractor says that these insulation has to be taken down before the framing is done. However, another contractor was thinking to just frame without worrying about taking down the original pink insulation. Who is correct here?
Tear it all down. There is not enough insulation there to keep the basement at a comfortable temperature. After the basement is fully framed, fill the cavity with insulation to a minimum of R20.
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Old 2011-01-15, 09:18 PM
katezia katezia is offline
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Thanks again for your suggestion. After tearing all existing insulation down, do I need to install vapor barrier on the concrete wall before framing?
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Old 2011-01-16, 05:25 AM
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1. code requires a 1 inch clearance from combustibles on the top. Build a frame parallel to the duct that is about 1/2 inch below the lowest point. You need something like this between the ducts as well. No need for cross members under the duct.

2. The isulation in a bag meets minimum code as is but is not meant to be behind a wall - it will trap condensation.

Remove the whole thing but you can reuse the insulation.

You need a moisture barrier against the cement - use house wrap (labels out). Note if you are going to spray foam the walls you don't need this.
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Old 2011-01-16, 08:20 AM
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Just my .02 cents here - but - the builders insulation came on a continous roll it is not broken up by studs - so it should give better insulating properties due to the lack of gaps provided by studs.

I would leave it and build my stud walls leaving a 1 inch gap between builders insulation/vapour barrier.

As for your ducts, there is a product called Linacoustic that can rap around your ducts - it is made of ridgid fiberglass - it will keep heat in the duct and reduce noise transmission through the ducts.

And as for framing under the duct, depending on span width you may or may not need to frame, however 1x3 should be sufficient running under the duct.

Tom
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Old 2011-01-16, 08:33 AM
golfer golfer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katezia View Post
Thanks again for your suggestion. After tearing all existing insulation down, do I need to install vapor barrier on the concrete wall before framing?
Not a vapour barrier...but a MOISTURE barrier. Big difference.
A vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the insulation, whereas a moisture barrier is used to separate insulation from touching concrete below grade.


You would benefit greatly by researching on the Canada Mortgage and Housing website at www.cmhc.ca
They even have a book you can purchase which is specific to finishing your basement.
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Old 2011-01-16, 09:27 AM
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Mr D is correct that a wall assemby without thermal bridges is good - but you need to add studs eventually to drywall it

The issue with this builder bag stuff is that because it has 2 layers of poly, it traps moisture inside when there are any pin holes, leaks in the joints

katezia reach up behind it against the cement and see if its wet, and inspect the entire face of it for condensation inside

Last edited by good2know; 2011-01-16 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 2011-01-16, 09:34 AM
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I like to do it like this - but using house wrap against the cement instead of the poly up to grade

2 layers of insulation (roxul on inside and fiberglass between studs) gives you R 26

http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/residential/p...ent.cfm?attr=4
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