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Basement Finishing and Renovations Has it been 2 years already? Time to work on finishing the basement into some extra living space.


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  #41  
Old 2017-05-11, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Rottn View Post
If youre getting it inspected that my be an issue. I believe that the shutoffs must be within a certain (nearby ) distance of the outside hose bibb.
Interesting. Haven't heard about that, but will confirm with the plumber - thanks for the note Rottn.
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  #42  
Old 2017-05-11, 06:26 PM
suezuki650 suezuki650 is offline
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Originally Posted by AvalonEncoreOwner View Post
Permits are for suckers who hate their money.
If you don't get permits and you have plumbing or electrical issues your insurance may or may not cover you. When you sell, the buyer may want to see if you got permits before finishing the basement... a sure sign of a do-it yourself.

Getting inspections ensures your work is to code.
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  #43  
Old 2017-05-12, 05:45 AM
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Hmmm I'd say that's backwards. I'd say that No Permits are for people who are willing to throw away money.

Watch a few Holmes Inspection shows and see what gets hidden behind the walls by 'Shortcut Contractors"

With no 3rd party inspections they get away with it.
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  #44  
Old 2017-05-12, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by xdarrylx View Post
Interesting. Haven't heard about that, but will confirm with the plumber - thanks for the note Rottn.
Tip: check the slope on the pipe connecting to the hose bib. Use something to raise it, and hold it, so it is angled down towards outside. This ensures the hose bib drains. 1/4 bubble on mini level is good

Metal strap for hanging pipes is one way. I wrap a couple loops of duct tape around the pvc so there is no wear point.

A pvc pipe clip can do it also if you can reach some framing. Installing a 2 x 2 works if not. I take the nail out of the clip and use a screw.

Do not insulate all the way to the hose bib connection to pipe point. The connection and say 3 inches of the hose bib needs to stay warm.

Last edited by good2know; 2017-05-12 at 05:56 AM.
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  #45  
Old 2017-05-12, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by xdarrylx View Post
If you go to sell a home, make an insurance claim or have issues in the future, without any permits you are SOL! Who wants to hold up the sale of a house because no permit was obtained? NO ONE. Who wants to have the insurance company refuse a pay out? NO ONE.
My understanding is that if you do the work yourself your insurance company will cover you, no matter how bad a job you do. If you have someone else do the work, and they cause your home to burn down because of their incompetence, then you are SOL (except that you can then go after the person who did the work - who probably isn't insured so still SOL).

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Originally Posted by jckstrthmghty View Post
You pay how much for a home and you are going to skimp a few hundred to get things done the right way? That definitely is the wrong path.
I think you will find that most people who don't bother with permits aren't trying to avoid the few hundred dollars it costs for the permits. They are trying to skimp the thousands they will pay in extra property taxes. But yes, it is the wrong path to take and could make your life difficult if/when you decide to sell (or when things go wrong because you didn't do things right).

Last edited by gerapau; 2017-05-12 at 07:49 AM.
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  #46  
Old 2017-05-16, 08:51 AM
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Thanks for the confirmation, good2know, that block framing is the way to go - surprised how much the studs had crowned in a few weeks. Took me a few hours but the blocking corrected the issues and was well worth it on my exterior non-load bearing walls. Once I finish the interior walls I'll do the same - gives me some peace of mind that when I get to drywall I won't have nightmares...haha! Also had the headers spray foamed yesterday too...now I can get back to finishing the framing and move onto electrical hopefully in a few weeks.
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  #47  
Old 2017-05-26, 10:16 AM
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Small update...

So I've been spending a few hours framing every couple of days and some more time on the weekends and I think I've got 80% of the framing complete. Few interior walls left to do, portion of the bathroom, few soffit ladders and under the stairs (we're building a fun little nook) left and I should be good to go. Been a wonderful learning experience and quite fun too! Thanks to good2know for the tip about the 4'+ cross members sagging in the soffit ladders...I built a small hanger and attached it to the joist for additional support!

Starting to prepare for the electrical work that needs to get done by sourcing NMD90 cable, cat5e, boxes, switches, receptacles, and more. Need to read up on the code book as well and pull a permit with ESA but I've got some time before I go down that path...need to finalize my electrical plan first. Fun times!
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  #48  
Old 2017-05-26, 10:23 AM
jckstrthmghty jckstrthmghty is offline
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Originally Posted by xdarrylx View Post
Need to read up on the code book as well and pull a permit with ESA but I've got some time before I go down that path...need to finalize my electrical plan first. Fun times!
I just got my esa inspection permit a few weeks ago over the phone. Not what I was expecting at all. Could not have been easier.

Framing looking great. You are definitely pushing me towards starting own project.
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  #49  
Old 2017-05-26, 12:22 PM
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I just got my esa inspection permit a few weeks ago over the phone. Not what I was expecting at all. Could not have been easier.
Oh yea? Wow that's awesome...thanks for the info, I'm more excited and less worried now!

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Originally Posted by jckstrthmghty View Post
Framing looking great. You are definitely pushing me towards starting own project.
Do it, it's super rewarding and if you enjoy working out problems and figuring out math puzzles, it's even more fun. I'm quite meticulous so this is right up my alley! Not sure if I'll be able to say the same when I am wiring, or putting up vapour barrier, drywall, ect., but so far it's a great project with beginner/advanced problems scattered throughout!
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  #50  
Old 2017-05-26, 12:28 PM
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Reminder to pick up the vapour barrier boxes for plugs and switches in the outside wall.

Also some wiring cover plates for any location where the wire(s) is close to the front edge.

A strap on your head light is a handy tool for wiring, especially when working in the panel box.
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