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Home Owner Tips, Upgrades and Maintenance General information on what to do with your new home. Garden, yard, driveway, basement finishing, and everything in between.


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  #91  
Old 2011-09-01, 01:48 PM
mj3tots mj3tots is offline
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Originally Posted by PJD View Post
Was it seriously 13K? If so, that's beyond ridiculous! Mine was $2800.
So not kidding you PJD. Standard was 4 3/4 I think and to upgrade to the highest which was 7. something or 8 can't remember now was $13k.
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  #92  
Old 2011-09-22, 10:17 AM
Simplicity Simplicity is offline
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Paying the price for convenience is steep. Some things we upgrade were smooth smooth ceilings 2nd floor, 7' smooth doors, garden doors, 7" baseboards, 8' front and rear doors, Coffered ceilings, hardwood throughout inc kitchen, and some kitchen upgrades like quartz.

Some things we will do ourselves include:
-2nd floor bathroom vanities
- pot lights
-crown molding
-gas line for stove
-speaker wiring
-network cat5 running
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  #93  
Old 2011-09-22, 11:05 AM
patrob patrob is offline
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Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
hardwood throughout inc kitchen
This is one upgrade you could have done after closing with identical product for much less than the builder's price
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  #94  
Old 2011-09-23, 11:53 AM
happyhome happyhome is offline
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Default Upgrades

Hi,

My husband and I also had in mind a list of "must haves" based on whether it is more efficient to do it through the builder for efficiency purposes (during framework open).

I will admit, even through several forewarnings by several friends who purchased new builds in the past, I was stunned at was considered an upgrade. I was warned not to assume anything lol

Our upgrades at decor:

Gas line for stove
Cabinet package for kitchen (3 drawers in island, valence and extended cabinets in lieu of corner cabinet)
Cable/electrical above fireplace for TV
A bunch of extra cable outlets
Individual switches for pot lights
Under-mounted sink (that one was crazy)

Our major structural and design modifications we actually did during the sale purchasing...moved walls, added island, got them to stain all stairs to match hardwood, double sink in ensuite bath, larger walk-in closet, created laundry room (with tiles)....for a very good price.

We've been super lucky that our builder and sales people are awesome to talk to and deal with.

Some items that we opted to not have and asked them to not put in the house were the soap dish, toilet paper and towel rods in any bathrooms and the kitchen hardware. Cheaper at ikea lol Hardwood on second floor we'll do later....decor gave us name of where our wood came from, so we'll get it and do ourselves. Granite tops for bathrooms later....etc.

Something that we are now facing to deal with to fix ourselves that I never thought we would have to are 2 ridiculous bulkheads that are in 2 rooms. In all of the new builds my parents bought, not a single room had a bulkhead! Now I'm faced with 2!! At least extend them all the way to make it look nice. My husband is looking up how we can do it ourselves as I'm afraid our builder might not do anything about it. I'm afraid to ask....move in scheduled for next month and we've already had 2 delayed firm closings....

but aside from that, we LOVE our new house and can't wait to get in!
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  #95  
Old 2011-09-23, 12:45 PM
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Selvi Selvi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happyhome View Post
Hi,

My husband and I also had in mind a list of "must haves" based on whether it is more efficient to do it through the builder for efficiency purposes (during framework open).

I will admit, even through several forewarnings by several friends who purchased new builds in the past, I was stunned at was considered an upgrade. I was warned not to assume anything lol

Our upgrades at decor:

Gas line for stove
Cabinet package for kitchen (3 drawers in island, valence and extended cabinets in lieu of corner cabinet)
Cable/electrical above fireplace for TV
A bunch of extra cable outlets
Individual switches for pot lights
Under-mounted sink (that one was crazy)

Our major structural and design modifications we actually did during the sale purchasing...moved walls, added island, got them to stain all stairs to match hardwood, double sink in ensuite bath, larger walk-in closet, created laundry room (with tiles)....for a very good price.

We've been super lucky that our builder and sales people are awesome to talk to and deal with.

Some items that we opted to not have and asked them to not put in the house were the soap dish, toilet paper and towel rods in any bathrooms and the kitchen hardware. Cheaper at ikea lol Hardwood on second floor we'll do later....decor gave us name of where our wood came from, so we'll get it and do ourselves. Granite tops for bathrooms later....etc.

Something that we are now facing to deal with to fix ourselves that I never thought we would have to are 2 ridiculous bulkheads that are in 2 rooms. In all of the new builds my parents bought, not a single room had a bulkhead! Now I'm faced with 2!! At least extend them all the way to make it look nice. My husband is looking up how we can do it ourselves as I'm afraid our builder might not do anything about it. I'm afraid to ask....move in scheduled for next month and we've already had 2 delayed firm closings....

but aside from that, we LOVE our new house and can't wait to get in!
Gas line for stove can be done after closing for much cheaper, but depends on how much the builder is asking.

The bulk ask them to extend around the whole room so it would look like a coffered ceiling.
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  #96  
Old 2012-07-18, 11:09 AM
YYC YYC is offline
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I am considering the upgrade about the gas line for stove and water line for ice maker but not sure how much will it cost by doing it later. Builder request 650 + tax and 250 + tax respectively. Is it good to go with the builder or do it later by contractor? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Last edited by YYC; 2012-07-18 at 11:13 AM.
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  #97  
Old 2012-07-22, 05:18 PM
dkm2k dkm2k is offline
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Default 9 feet basement cost

7500$ plus HST to raise the basement above ground 1 foot

19500 plus hst for 9 foot ceiling

total 27000 plus hst for 9 foot basement

windows are 36x 24 each 550 plus 100 for stone band = 650 each total 10 of them!!

total basement cost 33500 plus hst!!!!!

does this sound reasonable?

4425 square feet house
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  #98  
Old 2012-07-27, 04:05 PM
doda doda is offline
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Monarch upgrades for a townhome that we did:

-Maple stairs with iron spindles (~$1.9K)
-5" crown molding - dining and living room (~$1.35K)
-Full height cabinets in the kitchen (~$1.K)
-Water line to fridge ($300K)
-conduit from top of fireplace to cable point including recessed outlet (~$300)

regret to doing it now rather than later
-Valance lighting ($don't ask)

regret not doing it because of budget constraints
-granite countertop
-pot lights
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  #99  
Old 2012-08-15, 10:50 AM
MikeFTB MikeFTB is offline
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The answer to my questions may be in this thread somewhere but I skimmed through it and could not find what I looking for.

So I am debating on whether to have the builder install the hardwood flooring or not. The cost would be just over $4000 (for basic 2 1/4" oak) for the entrance hallway (approx. 65 sq. ft.) and living/dining (approx. 208 sq. ft.)....so around 270 sq. ft total.

About how much would it cost me do this after I move in? Much of a savings? I have not shopped around or looked into it much yet.

More importantly I have heard that with new homes there is a period of time after you move in where the house's temperature and humidity levels are still settling (may be the wrong terminology?) so it is not advisable to install hardwood during that time. I forget where I read it (may have been on this site somewhere)...is there any validity to this? If valid, how long is that time period?

Thanks in advance!
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  #100  
Old 2013-11-26, 08:22 AM
Halton Home Inspector Halton Home Inspector is offline
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Originally Posted by MikeFTB View Post

So I am debating on whether to have the builder install the hardwood flooring or not. The cost would be just over $4000 (for basic 2 1/4" oak) for the entrance hallway (approx. 65 sq. ft.) and living/dining (approx. 208 sq. ft.)....so around 270 sq. ft total.

More importantly I have heard that with new homes there is a period of time after you move in where the house's temperature and humidity levels are still settling (may be the wrong terminology?) so it is not advisable to install hardwood during that time. I forget where I read it (may have been on this site somewhere)...is there any validity to this? If valid, how long is that time period?
$4000. is a lot of cash for 270 sq. feet of hardwood which explains why so many people install it after they take possession.

Doing it after you take possession also gives you the opportunity to better screw down the subfloor before the floor is installed. This will reduce or eliminate floor squeaks in the future.

It's true that there are some humidity concerns with new home hardwood floors installed by builders so when people take possession of a new home it is VERY IMPORTANT to fully inspect hardwood floors during the PDI for any damage but also "cupping" and "crowning".* Based on my experience, most of the people who have had problems with hardwood floors took possession of their homes in the early summer. This would indicated that the hardwood was installed during humid warm spring weather.

Many people buy dehumidifiers and run them in the basement for the first year to remove excess humidity in the home.

*Cupping and crowning must be identified at the PDI. If you lay a straight edge like a ruler across the hardwood boards then that straight edge must lay flat. If the boards are cupped then the edges will be high and if the boards are crowned then the center of the board will be high. Either way the straight edge will NOT lay flat.

Sometimes, over time, the boards can flatten out and sometimes they do not, so it is VERY IMPORTANT that if you find these problems during the PDI that you MAKE SURE it is actually noted on the PDI form and that the builders PDI Rep does not try to convince you that "everything will be fine" or "everything is covered for one year" because that is not true. Tarion is very specific that these issues must be identified at the PDI to be covered by warranty.

Below - A badly cupped hardwood floor.


Last edited by Halton Home Inspector; 2013-11-26 at 09:09 AM.
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