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  #41  
Old 2018-03-13, 02:52 PM
BartBandy BartBandy is offline
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You apparently have a better-than-average bagged insulation install. That'll help. I still would take Roxul, rigid foam or especially spray foam over any rolled fibreglass insulation, but if it's not showing signs of condensation during the winter, that's good.
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  #42  
Old 2018-03-13, 02:54 PM
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xdarrylx xdarrylx is offline
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Originally Posted by homie27 View Post
yesterday when I went home, I went to my basement to see if I can put my hand behind the insulation to see if there is mold or moisture. the insulation is pretty tight against the wall, it is very difficult to put my hand behind it. there is a layer of insulation along to top half of the foundation and another layer along the bottom half. I was able to put my hand between the two layers and the insulation felt dry. i'm not sure if there is a vapor barrier between the foundation and the insulation. Anyways, on a whole the insulation seems pretty well installed. there are no gaps at the top for me to put my hand behind. its all sealed up. my house is about 9 years old. is it possible that bagged insulation has improved since then?
Are you planning to get a permit to finish your basement? The R-value of the bagged insulation, as someone noted previously, will be minimal and you'll still need a decent amount of work to make it pass - why not go the confident route and remove the bagged builder stuff and put in what you know will last without any questions/suspicions about what's behind down the road.
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  #43  
Old 2018-03-13, 03:17 PM
homie27 homie27 is offline
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yes i'm finishing my basement this summer. the company i'm probably going with doesn't remove the insulation. they just keep it as is an frame in front of it.
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  #44  
Old 2018-03-13, 06:50 PM
BartBandy BartBandy is offline
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That way is certainly cheaper.
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  #45  
Old 2018-03-14, 11:04 PM
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xdarrylx xdarrylx is offline
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Good luck to you. Post pics and share your experience.
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  #46  
Old 2018-03-15, 12:52 PM
homie27 homie27 is offline
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thanks. I will. we are now going with the second company. my wife likes them better. they use wood studs instead of metal which I prefer. But that's not why we chose them. wood is easier to work with after and they are stronger.
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  #47  
Old 2018-03-16, 12:24 AM
Mark & Lynda Mark & Lynda is offline
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Originally Posted by homie27 View Post
the company i'm probably going with doesn't remove the insulation. they just keep it as is an frame in front of it.
Homie27, a reputable contractor (company) will do anything you want, for a price. They should be asking you want you want versus dictating what they do. They can do anything.
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Old 2018-03-16, 11:13 AM
BartBandy BartBandy is offline
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thanks. I will. we are now going with the second company. my wife likes them better. they use wood studs instead of metal which I prefer. But that's not why we chose them. wood is easier to work with after and they are stronger.
Strength isn't even a factor because these walls aren't structural. Metal has a lot going for it. It's dead straight, for one. The bulkheads will likely be metal, because you can use smaller sections and they don't warp like a 2x2 does. I do agree with wood for the studs, but not because strength. Mostly because it sounds like you're not considering a subfloor, and they are likely to rust. When I stud a wall with 2x4s, I take my time selecting studs by how much they are bowed or warped and match them to their neighbour. I block them at mid-height and if needed, top and bottom to remove twist. Here is an example of my work, showing a plumb wall with blocking, metal strapped ceiling, dead straight bulkhead, Drybarrier subfloor, one duct extended to just above the floor and spray foam. If you compare that basement to one with bagged insulation and foil-backed laminate on poly, you will notice the difference immediately when you walk downstairs.



Give up any hope of having someone build a bulkhead as straight as I do. I'm anal retentive about that stuff.

And "Mark&Lynda" are right, because saying the contractor "doesn't removed the bagged insulation" has nothing to do with anything. Contractors do what you pay them to do. They don't remove that insulation because it takes time, not because leaving it up is a good way to do it.

If I was finishing a basement to sell, I would consider leaving the bagged insulation. If I was going to live there, no way.
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  #49  
Old 2018-03-16, 04:52 PM
homie27 homie27 is offline
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Originally Posted by Mark & Lynda View Post
Homie27, a reputable contractor (company) will do anything you want, for a price. They should be asking you want you want versus dictating what they do. They can do anything.
they do offer removing the insulation and putting new. but they said it won't make much of a difference in terms of temperature and so my wife doesn't want to pay extra for it. she's not going to listen to me over a contractor. if I was in the business then she would. the company said that 90% of reason a basement is cold is because hot air rises and the cold air goes down to the basement. the way to fix that is to put the cold air return close to floor. Others have said that to.
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  #50  
Old 2018-03-16, 04:54 PM
homie27 homie27 is offline
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...it sounds like you're not considering a subfloor...
we are putting laminate on the floor and I think they said they put a subfloor under it.
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