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Basement Finishing and Renovations Has it been 2 years already? Time to work on finishing the basement into some extra living space. |
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![]() First things first: The design. After trying my hand at a few different programs, I settled on RoomSketcher. Pretty easy to use, however it doesn't have the option to show the wall lengths. I've added in the details I feel are important in planning the space, as well as a vision of what it could look like completed. I'm open to any and all ideas! Thanks in advance ![]()
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Mattamy HMBS Oak End - Elevation B Moved In - May 1, 2014 |
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a couple quick things with more to come:
Take out the builder insulation in the header area, caulk or foam all the joints and cracks Then reinstall sealing the vapour barrier properly. Plans need to include a large cold air return intake at floor level Access to furnace room must be large enough that tank and furnace can be removed and replaced. Consider a dimpled membrane under the laminate - warmer and moisture protection. Delta ms works well. Get a contractor card from lowes. 5% or more off everything and delivery is $20 |
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in your pics your numbers for the shower and the sink are reversed from what it actually looks like.
Agreed on the entrance to the furnace room for the hot water tank. Last edited by jeffjc; 2015-01-21 at 12:45 PM. |
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Yes, I realize the 2 pics show a different layout in the bathroom. I should have mentioned that. I plan (not sure how difficult or costly it is) to have the pipes switched so the shower can be on the right side. I think it would be better for the flow of things, so you don't have to walk past a shower just to wash your hands.
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Mattamy HMBS Oak End - Elevation B Moved In - May 1, 2014 |
#5
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Thanks for the reply good2know! I've read a lot of your posts in various threads. I had planned to do that exact thing to the rim joists(headers). This could take place any time, once I get to it. I plan to get the dreaded City permit, but could start this before then? My plan for the walls is actually to remove the builder blanket, glue 1.5" rigid against the walls.. stud against the rigid and then fill in the studs with the pink blanket that I cut to size. Just wanted to confirm the layout on here first. I'm pretty sure there is already a pipe that just ends in the ceiling that can be extended to the floor for cold air return. The double doors on the left side of the furnace room would allow the removal and replacement of HWT/furnace. The bar that's there wouldnt be fixed so it could be moved out of the way if need be. Do you think the pocket door in the bathroom providing access to the back side of the furnace room and my humidifier is necessary? I've looked into the flooring option and was thinking of going with something dimpled, such as the DeltaFL or the DMX 1-Step, followed by 5/8" OSB. I think I can skip the OSB if I choose to go with laminate. That's good2know (haha) about the Lowe's contractor card! Does HomeDepot do the same?
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Mattamy HMBS Oak End - Elevation B Moved In - May 1, 2014 |
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Homedepot contractor deal is not as good. Also jan29 to Feb 1it is 15% off. They have a special like this monthly.
No problem doing the header pre permit. Just needs to be visible for inspection point pre drywall. Access to humidifier is a must. No need for osb if you go laminate. What is the ceiling plan? |
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Mattamy HMBS Oak End - Elevation B Moved In - May 1, 2014 |
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Any idea what I can expect to pay for permits? the space is approx 500 sqft. I don't know which category I fall into.. is it Gorup C - Finished basement for above residential @ $0.29/ sqft? Is that it? Do I need to pay for each inspection or is it included in the cost of the permit? I've read a lot about permit vs no-permit and I'd rather have the peace of mind that when it comes time to sell there won't be any issues. The ceiling plan.. that's still undecided. I am thinking on the bathroom/furnace room side I will go with drop ceiling (most of the plumbing and hvac is on this side) and then drywall the living area. Open to suggestions though.
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Mattamy HMBS Oak End - Elevation B Moved In - May 1, 2014 |
#10
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I beleive your permit will be based on $11 per $1000 of value which is $40/sq ft x the sqft.
The $40 needs confirmation. I have seen the dropped ceiling tracks go rusty in bathrooms. Suggest a high quality fan > 100cf to minimize this risk. Permit fees cover inspections. Electrical is separate and in addition. |
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