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  #11  
Old 2020-11-09, 11:14 AM
Rabbit Rabbit is offline
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Originally Posted by HomeDream View Post
Hi

When we had our appointment we got overwhelmed with the huge number of upgrades. When we came to this our design guide said all walls have already Insulation. We asked her if it's worth it? she said I don't think you need this, it's for sound prove only and it's not gonna make that difference especially all walls insolated by code only on the garage out walls if you need to use the garage as a working or living area in the future. so we did not do any. We only upgraded to sold doors for the Master bedroom and laundry room. Honestly, till now we don't know if we did the right decision or not.

Good Luck
Thank you for the reply. I read another thread entitled asking inspector Phil who said something just like what you said: if you do not plan to stay in the garage for a long time, there is no meaning to insulate it because the temperature will eventually match the outdoor's. I also looked at the Parkside model and I think you made a good decision because all bedrooms of Parkside are quite isolated from the others by WIC etc. so probably extra insulation will not help much.
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  #12  
Old 2020-11-09, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Halton Home Inspector View Post
I would be interested in knowing if they planned to use proper sound blocking insulation like rockwool or if they are just wasting every ones time and money and just using batts of fiberglass insulation.
Thank you for coming here to help. Just as DreamHome mentioned in the first post that Mattamy will use R14 Batt for sound insulation. Does it make any sense in your opinion?
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  #13  
Old 2020-11-09, 04:23 PM
Halton Home Inspector Halton Home Inspector is offline
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Originally Posted by Rabbit View Post
Thank you for coming here to help. Just as DreamHome mentioned in the first post that Mattamy will use R14 Batt for sound insulation. Does it make any sense in your opinion?
That sound pretty vague. Most insulation comes in "batts" and I suppose anything that fills the voids in the wall(s) will dampen sound.

But, the "R" value mentioned is a reference to heat loss not sound attenuation.

Whether you use a fiberglass product (Owens Corning) or a rock wool product (Roxul) IMO proper sound attenuation batts would be the best products to use.

For the money you are spending I think you are entitled to a real answer - is the builder using standard fiberglass batts of insulation used for heat loss to reduce the sound OR is the builder using specific "sound attenuation batts" of insulation used to control the transfer of sound from one space to another.

Keep in mind that whatever is used it will all be better than nothing.

As well, just as a pail with a pin hole in it can not hold water - insulation placed in the voids of walls work best when there are no gaps. For example - imagine someone talking in another room. You may not hear them very well. Now imagine a small hole in the wall, like 4 inch by 4 inch. Now you will be able to hear them easily even though the hole is small.

Owens Corning makes - Sound Attenuation Batt insulation, and
Roxul makes - Safe n Sound insulation.
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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector; 2020-11-10 at 07:37 AM.
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  #14  
Old 2020-11-13, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Halton Home Inspector View Post
That sound pretty vague. Most insulation comes in "batts" and I suppose anything that fills the voids in the wall(s) will dampen sound.

But, the "R" value mentioned is a reference to heat loss not sound attenuation.

Whether you use a fiberglass product (Owens Corning) or a rock wool product (Roxul) IMO proper sound attenuation batts would be the best products to use.

For the money you are spending I think you are entitled to a real answer - is the builder using standard fiberglass batts of insulation used for heat loss to reduce the sound OR is the builder using specific "sound attenuation batts" of insulation used to control the transfer of sound from one space to another.

Keep in mind that whatever is used it will all be better than nothing.

As well, just as a pail with a pin hole in it can not hold water - insulation placed in the voids of walls work best when there are no gaps. For example - imagine someone talking in another room. You may not hear them very well. Now imagine a small hole in the wall, like 4 inch by 4 inch. Now you will be able to hear them easily even though the hole is small.

Owens Corning makes - Sound Attenuation Batt insulation, and
Roxul makes - Safe n Sound insulation.
Thank you for the information. Mattamy confirmed that the R14 Batt they will use is fiberglass for sound attenuation.

My current house is very bad in soundproof between the main and the second floors, so I want my new house be better. I am not sure if I should insulate the entire ceiling of the main floor or just those for great room and kitchen. Because there is no ceiling at all above the stairs, does it mean no matter how much insulation we have, there is still a big hole?
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  #15  
Old 2020-11-22, 01:50 AM
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Sounds transfers by vibration through structural materials.

Putting insulation in the ceiling will not do much in my experience. We go through this all the time with people building home theatres in their basement thinking they are going to eliminate sound transference between floors.

To reduce sound between floors you can double the drywall, stagger the sheets, use green glue between them and then a resilient channel between the drywall and the joists. You will not get a production builder to do any of this.

However I believe in Ottawa you guys build houses a bit differently than we do here in the GTA. Here we usually secure drywall directly to the ceiling joists. There I believe you guys do 1x2 cross members 90 degrees to the joists and secure the drywall to that. That can help as there is less surface area directly tied to the joists to transfer sound.

'Sound proof' is also an improper term making you think you can completely eliminate it. Think 'sound dampening'. You are dampening the vibrations.
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  #16  
Old 2020-11-23, 11:39 AM
Halton Home Inspector Halton Home Inspector is offline
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Hey Greg. I hope you do not need to go into many attics in the newest homes being built. Some of them have R70 loose fill fiberglass which is an insane 26 inch thickness. This make navigating around the attic, looking for conduits, etc. very difficult and messy.

For all it's worth. I think it's time to drop fiberglass in attics. Cellulose gives the same R-value with much less thickness.
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