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Basement Finishing and Renovations Has it been 2 years already? Time to work on finishing the basement into some extra living space.


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Old 2016-03-03, 10:05 AM
TheGrudge TheGrudge is offline
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Default Plumbing the Basement Bathroom

My basement is finished and I am 85% done with the washroom. There is no tub, it's just a powder room.

Opposite the wall where my vanity is going, is my furnace room. I was hoping to install a laundry tub on the same wall as the vanity - just on the other side. My vanity, laundry tub and toilet are purchased and ready to go.

I know a plumber, but he's been a bit flaky getting back to me and while the $450 he quoted me isn't bad, I'm starting to think I can do this on my own. I'm a handy guy and my basement was framed by me, I did the moulding, the window trims etc etc. and I'm not typically one to shy away from a project.

I checked with my local building inspector and he said shark-bite fittings meet code, so really - what's holding me back?

My only questions are:

1) I've never installed a toilet before. How does it secure to the floor? I have barricade subfloor which were tapcon'd down (5 per tile) and then Ditra and tile.

2) On the wall that divides my bathroom and furnace room one side is finished (the bathroom side) and the other is exposed. Should I run the drain through the studs by using a hole-saw bit, or is it acceptable to just run the pipe in front of the studs in my furnace room?

3) What's the best way to have the vanity and laundry tub set to drain? Can they both go into the one drain line that's roughed in?

4) There are water lines above my washroom, but I think they're just 1/2" and I think they go to my kitchen. I assume I don't want to use these to run my lines. Instead, I should probably tie in somewhere to the 3/4" if I can. Any rules about where it's best to tie in, what not to do etc?

Thanks!
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Old 2016-03-03, 01:09 PM
oakvillehomeowner oakvillehomeowner is offline
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I'll preface this by saying that I'm no plumber, but I wouldn't hesitate to try this on my own. A pro may do a better looking job, but I've also seen some pretty crappy "pro" jobs...

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1) I've never installed a toilet before. How does it secure to the floor? I have barricade subfloor which were tapcon'd down (5 per tile) and then Ditra and tile.
The toilet flange needs to be installed and secured to the subfloor (I'd tapcon it to the concrete below, but securing to the tile would probably work too). The install your finished floor and the toilet secures to the flange with flange bolts. Youtube is your friend for this.

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Originally Posted by TheGrudge View Post
2) On the wall that divides my bathroom and furnace room one side is finished (the bathroom side) and the other is exposed. Should I run the drain through the studs by using a hole-saw bit, or is it acceptable to just run the pipe in front of the studs in my furnace room?
Since the furnace room will be unfinished, you can leave the drains in front. It would be better looking to run through the studs and your method should be acceptable. You should put guard plates on the studs to protect the pipes running through them from accidental piercing by a nail/screw.

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3) What's the best way to have the vanity and laundry tub set to drain? Can they both go into the one drain line that's roughed in?
I don't see why not. Again, I'm not a plumber and don't pretend to know what your local code says, but they're both just sinks...

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4) There are water lines above my washroom, but I think they're just 1/2" and I think they go to my kitchen. I assume I don't want to use these to run my lines. Instead, I should probably tie in somewhere to the 3/4" if I can. Any rules about where it's best to tie in, what not to do etc?
I'd tie into the 1/2". It's cheaper for the fittings, easier to cut, and for a powder room sink/toilet and laundry tub, you don't have any need for the higher volume you'd get from a 3/4" line. If you were putting in a huge soaker tub I'd consider 3/4" lines, but in your case I think it'd be a waste. I would definitely try to make the connections in the unfinished area so that you can fix any leaks in the future without pulling down drywall.
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Old 2016-03-03, 04:38 PM
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good2know good2know is offline
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Hi Tg its been a while.

For starters, pull out the rough in info for the toilet and determine if the pipe is where it needs to be. Also, do you have a 4 inch pipe.

Can you post a pic of the sink and vent roughin?

For your laundry tub, suggest you put some sort of splash board on the wall behind it - you could slap some cheap tile on drywall for example

Is the bathroom floor all in now? Pic for that too please.
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Old 2016-03-08, 12:17 PM
TheGrudge TheGrudge is offline
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I got everything installed with the help of my neighbor who is a plumber in training. The building inspector also helped out quite a bit with his advice.

My entire basement floor is covered in Barricade tiles, save for the furnace room. Prior to installing tile in the bathroom I knew I had to do something about the small amounts of play in the floor as that would be no good for tile. I ended up finding documentation on Barricade's website (they're now Dricore I guess) that said you could put tile over top if you screwed each tile down with 5 tapcons. So I have Barricade, Ditra, and tile in my bathroom.

I'm not sure if this is a Kingston thing (where I am) or not, but the toilet rough in was not glued in place. The builder just puts a 4' length of ABS into the floor drain. That way it lets whoever plumbs the toilet pull the pipe out and cut it to the appropriate length before gluing.

Running the water lines could not have been easier using the Shark bite adapters. It's literally like building a LEGO set to where you need to go. I also incorporated shut offs at every fixture AND a shut off on both the hot and cold lines where I T'd into the main line. This way I only had to shut the main house water off for a few minutes as all our new work was behind the shutoff.

The toilet was easy, and I remembered to hook up the cold water line to it, not the hot water line, so that was a victory!

In terms of the laundry tub drain and vanity, I was told that each drain could be 1 1/2", but beyond where the two meet it had to be 2". It's also an option to just add another TY to the 2" drain and have two separate 1 1/2" drains go into it.

The vanity and toilet are now good to go and signed off by the building inspector. I'll tackle the laundry tub this weekend.
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